In the hit parade of top sights in Canada, Banff justifiably ranks as many people's number one. As much a piece of Canadian history as a natural wonder, the nation's oldest national park, founded in 1885, is what Canada is all about: a feral, but largely accessible wilderness.
Lake Louise is famous for its searingly blue water, caused by light reflecting off tiny particles of ‘rock flour' (glacial silt) carried down from the mountain glaciers.
The opulent Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise enjoys one of the world's most enviable locations on the shores of Lake Louise. Here's to the good life!
The mountainous panoramas of Moraine Lake are arguably even more stunning than those at Lake Louise. Backed by the dagger-point peaks of the Wenkchemna Range, Moraine is another sparkling, bluer-than-blue lake that's fed by glacial runoff from the surrounding mountains. It's one of the best-known views of the Rockies.
The walk that practically everyone who visits Lake Louise wants to do is the Beehives and Lake Agnes. The reward is two mountain lakes, a historic teahouse and a fantastic cloud-level lookout.
The Lake Agnes Teahouse has been here since 1901, but the present building is a replica. It serves a huge selection of exotic teas and soups, baked goods and sandwiches are also available.
In summer or winter you can summit a peak near Banff thanks to the Banff Gondola, whose four-person enclosed cars glide up to the top of Sulphur Mountain in less than 10 minutes. Named for the thermal springs that emanate from its base, this peak is a perfect viewing point and a tick-box Banff attraction.
The Canadian national-park system was effectively born here at the Cave & Basin hot springs, discovered accidentally by three Canadian Pacific Railway employees on their day off in 1883, but known to Aboriginals for around 10,000 years. You can't swim here anymore, but the site has reopened as an impressive museum.
Looking up beside the Bow River, the Banff Springs Hotel is a local landmark in more ways than one. Originally built in 1888, and remodelled in 1928 to resemble a cross between a Scottish baronial castle and a European chateau, the turret-topped exterior conceals an eye-poppingly extravagant selection of ballrooms, lounges, dining rooms and balustraded staircases.
About 500m (0.03 mile) south of town, the Bow River plunges into a churning melee of white water at Bow Falls. Though the drop is relatively small—just 9m (30ft) at its highest point—Bow Falls is a dramatic sight.
The 2.3km (1.4km) Marsh Loop trail begins near the Cave & Basin National Historic Site and meanders through one of Banff's most important areas of natural marshland.
The paved path through Johnston Canyon to its twin waterfalls is one of Banff's highlights. The asphalt trail cuts through the center of the lush canyon, traversing several suspended catwalks high above the surging waters of Johnston Creek, which has carved out the canyon from the surrounding limestone rock.
We hike down to not-so-“Secret Cave" for an eye-level view of part of the falls.
Sandi sneaks behind the waterfall for a different perspective.
Cradled high above the town between the Palliser and Fairholme Ranges, Lake Minnewanka is the largest body of water in the national park and it's cold, barely a few degrees above freezing. It is the only lake in Banff that allows motorboats so we take a cruise that includes a commentary on the history, geology and mythology of the lake.
Unfortunately, we aren't able to see Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park due to the closure of the road but we do venture out in the rain to Yoho's unmissable sight, vividly coloured Emerald Lake. Like its sister lakes of Peyto, Moraine and Lake Louise, Emerald Lake gains its otherworldly colour from sunlight bouncing off rock particles suspended in the water—the brighter the light, the more vivid the colour. Ringed by forest and silhouetted by impressive mountains, it's a truly beautiful spot.
We stop to admire the surging waters at Natural Bridge on the road to/from Emerald Lake.
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