Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Southern France Rocks, Part 9


Set on a limestone plateau amid the scented garrigues, the herb-covered scrubland countryside along the foot of the ancient Massif Central, Uzès is one of the loveliest villages in the Languedoc.


It's the home of the lords of Uzès, the first duchy of France, whose members can trace their ancestry back to Charlemagne and who still reside in the ducal palace of Le Duché (above). This palace is a massive conglomeration of styles, the result of nearly continuous expansion in direct correlation to the rising wealth and power of the duke and duchess. Whether it's worth the steep entrance fee is debatable. We debated and passed.


The central place aux Herbes is one of the prettiest and atmospheric squares in all of southern France, its medieval stone arcades housing cafes, restaurants, and shops. This is where the Saturday market begins before it meanders along the outlying streets.




Paella for a giant, or a least a giant appetite.


“Is it lunchtime yet?”



Provençal ladies like their ruffles.


Even the children dress ooh-la-la-chic!


The circular six-story Tour Fenestrelle is all that remains of the original 12th century cathedral that was burned down by the Huguenots. It's closed to the public, but you can see how the exterior resembles the Leaning Tower of Pisa.


Something has caught Sandi's keen eye in this area of Provence. In many homes, hotels and shops she has noticed a certain style of ceramic pintade (guinea fowl) on display and in Uzès she discovers the shop that carries them and their raison d'etre. And that leads her on a mission... to having one!


They are produced by the nearby (a 20-minute drive from Uzès) Les Ceramiques des Lussan, and are not only a local favourite but are also world-famous and highly collectible. So, off we go and here we are at the factory and Sandi is in pintade heaven.


Aren't they just the cutest little things you ever did see?! (How can you tell Sandi is writing this post?)


She wants them all of course but Tim brings her back down to earth and after much deliberation she decides on one pintade and one petite poulette (and resolves to come back again, don't tell Tim!)


In recent decades the unpronounceable little town of Le Grau du Roi (try “Grroh du Rwa”) has sprouted Europe's biggest pleasure port. Trawlers chug up and down the main channel which splits the town in two. The odours are of diesel, fish and heat, the quayside a scrum of tackle, nets, ropes, tanned blokes with roll-ups unloading sea-bass—but also of café terraces and boutiques selling fluorescent hairgrips.


French tourists abound and there is a sense of permanent impermanence, which suits a holiday mood.


The capital of Languedoc, the medieval university city of Montpellier is one of southern France's most dynamic and fastest-growing cities.



Scores of cafes and restaurants fill the many squares but the largest is place de la Comédie, with its opulent 18th century opera house and fountain of the Three Graces.




The city's handsome old town has tree-flanked promenades, ancient monuments, and winding medieval lanes.




The town's greatest attraction is Musée Fabre, one of France's great provincial art museums.


Superb!



The collection originated when Napoleon sent Montpellier an exhibition of the Royal Academy in 1802. Francois Fabre, a Montpellier painter, contributed its most important works in 1825. 


After Fabre's death other paintings from his collection were donated to the gallery. Several were his own creations, but the more significant works were ones he had acquired—including Poussin's Venus and Adonis. This isn't it but a detail of the mosaic floor of the museum.


A portrait of sculptor Antonio Canova by Fabre.


“Le bord de mer à Palavas” by Gustave Courbet, 1854.


The Arc de Triomphe, erected in 1691 to celebrate the victories of Louis XIV.


The city's handsome old town has tree-flanked promenades, ancient monuments, and winding medieval lanes.



Sète, the deepest port in the Mediterranean, is in the process of change. Once cheerfully scruffy, with its focus firmly on the fishing industry, it has been busy expanding, regenerating, and generally smartening itself up. Its sea soul is still here, but it has acquired a new gloss. It's a city of canals with mainly 19th century pastel-coloured buildings.


And lots and lots of restaurants because the French like to eat, yes, they do. Here in Southern France, traditional Moules Marinières is the always the order of the day.


"When in Rome" as the saying goes but we're opting for the paella today.




The attractive town of Pézenas between Béziers and Montpellier was briefly home to Molière in the 17th century, and it won't let you forget it, especially during its summertime festival celebrating France's greatest playwright.




The greatest pleasure in Pézenas is strolling around the tangle of streets in the old town, where centuries collide in the richness of its architectural history. You never quite know when you're about to peer through an open doorway and see a Renaissance stone staircase swooping under vaulted ceilings.


It was a substantial center of trade during the Middle Ages, when the reputation of the town's craftspeople was known all over the region. That tradition carries on, with today's generation of skilled artisans creating beautiful objects out of glass, wood, ceramics, and other materials. You can see their ateliers (workshops) as you wander through the narrow streets. Like here at divine-smelling Stephane Vanier.


This is going in Sandi's suitcase too, along with her santons nativity set from Feyance, Van Goph-print silk scarf from St Rémy, and pintade and petite poulette from Uzès.



Villa Juliette where we're staying is only a few minutes' walk from the town center, but the peace and tranquility behind the gates of this B&B make the town seem a world away.


Have you ever been to a door museum? Well, there's one here and for good reason. The doors of Pèzenas are as beautiful and historic as they are varied.




Sandi wants to meet the giant who lives behind this giant door. Do you think it's the same one that ordered that giant paella?


Antique shops abound everywhere in France—this one in Pézenas specializes in beautiful mirrors and frames.



Lavender-coloured shutters to match Tim's shirt!






As you now know Sandi has a penchant for poultry and asks Tim, “Pleeeeease, can we have him?” Tim just shakes his head (and smiles). Antiquing is both a national pastime and competitive sport in France and Sandi is game for both.


The Abbaye de Valmagne is a beautiful Cistercian Abbey that was transformed into a wine cellar after the French Revolution. Not sure what God would think about this but hey, Jesus turned water into wine so maybe it's okay. Moderation folks.


The Abbaye is an easy, scenic 15-minute drive from Pézenas.





Brother Nonenque was the winemaker at the Abbey in 1575 and this wine, “The Secret of Brother Nonenque” is made in his honour. His secret? The varieties that make up the blend. Brother Nonenque, pictured on the label, made his red wines from a now mostly-vanished grape called “Morrestel”. The winery recently decided to recreate some of his wines and managed to find some surviving examples of the variety elsewhere. Hopefully, Brother Nonenque is in heaven smiling.



The Abbaye is also a great place to have lunch. Santé to Tim, the monks and to France!