Monday, September 15, 2014

San Juan Islands Hop


We arrive by ferry at Friday Harbor on San Juan Island in the United States and drive to Roche Harbor, a heritage destination resort about 14km away. San Juan Island is a popular holiday destination, offering visitors the most in terms of urban amenities, relaxing hideaways, and wilderness hikes. 



A village unto itself, the Roche Harbor Resort offers accommodations, as well as a marina for seafaring guests, large enough for 377 vessels.




First, there is the century-old Hotel de Haro, where lace-trimmed beds, antiques, and roaring fireplaces transport you back to an earlier time. 


Originally a log bunkhouse, which sports the occasional slanting floor and crooked window, the hotel evolved into the distinctive three-story structure you see today, sophisticated enough to entertain company brass and dignitaries, including President Theodore Roosevelt who signed the guestbook in 1907.


John Wayne loved his baths in this custom, over-sized bathtub, now in the shared bathroom on the second floor. "Pass the bubbles Pilgrim."


There was no town at Roche Harbor until John S. McMillin, a Tacoma lawyer, discovered the richest and largest deposit of lime in the Northwest at Roche Harbor, and began negotiations for his claim in 1884. By 1886, the Tacoma and Roche Harbor Lime Company had been incorporated and became a large-scale business.


In 1975, the road was paved with yellow bricks—the fire bricks which lined kilns one through eight, hence the name Yellow Brick Road.


As there was no local source of bricks when the kilns were built, bricks were purchased in Canada and shipped to Roche Harbor. The names on the bricks reflect the names of the companies they were purchased from.



Named for an early lime-kiln operation on site, Lime Kiln Point State Park is the only park in the world dedicated to whale-watching. Researchers use Lime Kiln Lighthouse, built in 1914 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, to watch for whales and to determine whether passing boats are affecting their behaviour.



San Juan Island's colourful past stems from a boundary dispute between the US and Great Britain when, from 1860 to 1872, both countries occupied the island. In one of the stranger pieces of history, the killing of a British homesteader's pig by an American settler nearly sent the two countries to the battlefield. Fortunately, cooler heads prevailed, so what is now referred to as the Pig War of 1859 resulted in only one casualty: the pig. The San Juan Islands were eventually declared American territory. The American Camp (above photo) serves as a historic reminder of those early days. The windswept grassy peninsula is a wonderful place to spend a sunny afternoon.


In sharp contrast to American Camp, English Camp is located in an area of protected waters, with maple trees spreading out overhead. A trail leads through second-growth forests up to Young Hill, a fairly easy 198m (650ft) ascent with panoramic views as the reward.




Jump forward. This may look like the same place but it's not. We get around, don't we? We're now on Orcas Island in Moran State Park at the top of Mount Constitution (elevation 731m, 2,399ft) where the panorama stretches from the North Shore Mountains over Vancouver, BC to Mount Rainier, south of Seattle.


Snow-capped Mount Baker can be seen in the distance. Named for the viceroy of Mexico in 1792—not, in fact, for the orca whales common to its waters—Orcas Island is the largest, hilliest, and most beautiful of the San Juan Islands. Half the fun of exploring this island is traveling its roads, which, in addition to going up and down, twist and turn among hedgerows, fields and orchards. Around any bend might lie a jewel of a bay or an unexpected hamlet filled with quaint cottages and wildflower gardens.


We're staying at the Rosario Resort & Spa, a turn-of-the-20th-century mansion, originally the private residence of shipping magnate Robert Moran and the crown jewel of Orcas Island. Walls are 30cm (12in) thick and paneled with mahogany. Windows are 2.5cm (1in) thick plate glass. And teak parquet floors, covering some 557sq. m. (5,995 sq. ft.) took craftsmen more than 2 years to lay.


The music room features a Tiffany chandelier and a working 1,972-pipe Aeolian organ, which, when installed in 1913, was the largest organ in a private home in the United States. We are treated to a free concert by the talented General Manager, Christopher Peacock, who not only plays the organ but also a 1900 Steinway grand piano. It's just too beautiful not to share so here's a sampling:




The house's lower level (now the gift shop and spa), has a floor made of Italian mosaic tile, and had a swimming pool, billiard table, and a bowling alley.



The pretty soap dish in our room reminded us so much of the swirling west coast waters we have been traveling on we just had to purchase one from the gift shop to take home.



We're on the ferry again bound for our last island, Lopez (passing Mount Baker). Laced with country lanes, picturesque farms and orchards, Lopez Island is just about as bucolic and pastoral as it gets. Cows and sheep are a common sight, as are bright fields of lilies and delphiniums. In summer, cyclists flock to the gently rolling hills, hikers explore the trails and bluffs of county parks, and birdwatchers take to the expanses of protected tidal flats to watch a myriad of shorebirds.


We had the best room service meal we've ever had at the Coast Victoria Harbourside Hotel in Victoria and now, here at Isabel's Espresso in Lopez Village, we're having the best cappucino and chocolate chip oatmeal cookie we've ever had.



Happy hour watching the sunset over Fisherman Bay at the Lopez Islander Resort.




Back on the mainland we're spending a few hours exploring Pike Place Public Market in Seattle.


It's the oldest covered market in the country, and certainly one of the busiest, used by Seattle residents and restaurateurs looking for the freshest fish and produce as well as throngs of tourists looking for photo opps.


At $40/pound for Alaskan King Crab you can understand why security guards are needed.


Seattle's Starbucks has become ubiquitous throughout the world, with coffee shops in such unexpected locations as the Forbidden City in Beijing. It's hard to turn a corner in Seattle without finding a Starbucks, but this location at Pike Place Market is where it all began in 1971, complete with the unique logo of the original store. Makes us jittery.



Oh, the flowers!



The English muffin and his crumpet can't resist The Crumpet Shop on First Street. The good folks here have been making crumpets for 36 years running and boy, are they are good. Re-e-e-e-eally good.


We wrap up our island hop at Christian Faith Center in Federal Way to see the inspirational Ravi Zacharias touch hearts and intellects with the love of God and truth of the Gospel. We're heading home tomorrow but not before a stop and shop at the outlet centers conveniently located en route to the Canadian border.

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Gulf Islands Hop


Magazines such as Conde Nast's Traveler and Travel & Leisure consistently rank Victoria and Vancouver Island among the world's finest visitor destinations. And little wonder. They offer activities at both ends of the spectrum. The islands' home-grown, organic food scene is phenomenal, giving rise to a terrific selection of restaurants and inns (especially in Victoria), so you can literally graze your way from point A to point B. Or you can simply pitch a tent in the rainforest and hike, spelunk, and sea kayak in and around protected inlets, craggy shores, and windswept beaches. We're going to explore some of these close-to-home areas by car, ferry, kayak and foot—primarily the Gulf and San Juan Islands.


As we make our way north towards Campbell River on Vancouver Island, Coombs Old Country Market is the mother of all pit-stops.


The original market was created by Kristian Graaten who emigrated, along with his wife and children, to Vancouver Island from Norway in the 1950s. Kris, who grew up in the small community of Lillehammer, was inspired to include a sod roof in his design of the market. Many Norwegian homes and farm structures are built directly into the hillside with the sod roof becoming an extension of the hillside. With the help of their sons and son-in-law, Larry, Kris unwittingly began to build what would become perhaps the most famous sod-roof building in the world.


Legend has it that, after a few glasses of wine, Larry suggested that they 'borrow' some goats to 'mow' the grass. The goats became permanent tenants of the Coombs market and have been there for more than thirty years. NOTE: In the above photo Tim is not one of the old goats who has been there for more than thirty years.


The market has become such a landmark that an entire landscape has sprouted up in the environs, a haphazard collection of gift and souvenir stores, many of which are fun to browse. We regret not buying this sign.


When Tim's brother and wife gifted us with a shell-shaped dish from Mussels and More for our wedding, Sandi was smitten, not only with her new husband, but also with the pottery. Jan Sell, the founder, has been a self-taught potter for the past 25 years and now that we're here at her flagship store and factory in Campbell River, Sandi's just a little excited and Tim's just a lot worried about his credit card.


"I want them all but if I can only have one (for now... hint, hint, Christmas is coming darling), this gorgeous mussel dish is it! Thank you beloved husbandy for this wonderful present and to you Jan, for letting me drool and dream all over your beautiful creations." - Sandi


We're spending the night at Painter's Lodge in Campbell River. An international favourite of avid fisherman and celebrities, Painter's Lodge has welcomed the likes of Bob Hope, Julie Andrews, Goldie Hawn, and the Prince of Luxembourg. Its location overlooking Discovery Passage is awesome, and its rustic grandeur has a West Coast ambience.


Sandi's Travel Tip: Wherever a girl may roam she should always carry French perfume in her suitcase (and lots of Lululemon).


After breakfast we take a 10-minute ferry ride to Quadra Island and drive to the April Point Resort & Spa. April Point caters to a more soft-adventuring crowd with its kayak, bike, and scooter rentals, as well as its Aveda concept spa at the water's edge.


Despite the cold and rainy weather conditions, the scenery is beautiful and serene.


High on a tree top Mr. and Mrs. Bald Eagle keep a protective eye on junior.



Affectionately called the Discovery Islands, Quadra and Cortes Islands march to the beat of a different drummer. Both are richly pastoral, with stretches of sandy beaches to explore and meandering roads that lead to hidden coves, artist studios, and sudden dead-ends that may or may not have an overgrown path to the beach. Quadra is more mainstream, while Cortes is a haven for those walking the talk of living a holistic, alternative lifestyle.


God is everywhere and in everything reminding us of His presence.



"For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life." John 3:16


Sandy beaches line both sides of Rebecca Spit Marine Provincial Park—a 2-km narrow hook of land on the east side of Quadra Island and a good place for a walk and picnic.


Quadra's fascinating Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre illuminates the heritage and traditions of the First Nations people, showcasing carvings and artifacts and staging traditional dance performances. Behind the museum is "The House of Eagles", a longhouse-like structure used to teach carving, dancing, and other traditional skills.



The lighthouse at Cape Mudge, Quadra Island.




Spectacular sunset views at April Point Resort.


The view from the dining room's not bad either.


The next morning we head to Cortes Island for the day and set out for a paddle from Squirrel Cove. Sandi takes a coffee break while Tim responds to nature's call. Located at the entrance to Desolation Sound, one of British Columbia's most celebrated cruising areas, Cortes Island is a beautiful wilderness hideaway.


The waters abound with Moon Jellyfish.







Tim navigates well and finds the narrow, shallow entrance of near-hidden back end of the cove.



Tim loves Canada.


Just look at this marvel! The colours and design of this exquisite, sparkly, aptly-named Golden Jewel Beetle are incredible.


The next morning, back on Quadra, we launch our kayak from April Point Marina. A Great Blue Heron strikes an elegant pose.




A curious harbour seal pops up to say, "Hello and good-bye!" as we head back to catch the ferry to Salt Spring Island.


We arrive on Salt Spring Island just in time to check into Hedgerow House B&B and settle into the Tree House Café. At this magical outdoor dining experience in the heart of Ganges, we are sitting in the shade of a large plum tree as Tim tucks into Salt Spring Island lamb and Saltspring Island Ales Porter.


The busiest, largest and most developed of the islands, Salt Spring has a reputation for palatial vacation homes, but it's also lined with artist studios and artisan food and drink producers like Salt Spring Island Cheese.


Salt Spring Island Cheese is an idyllic farmstead and a great place for a wander and a tasting or two in the winery-style shop. The Ruckles goat cheese went straight into our picnic basket as did the Bite Me! Triple Chocolate Cookies.



"Goat milk? Sorry, baaaaad joke."


Ruckle Provincial Park is a southeast gem with ragged shorelines and gnarly arbutus forests. It makes for a great afternoon of hiking along with a tour of Ruckle Heritage Farm, BC's oldest working farm.


We're on a picnic-gathering push for our evening paddle and need an accompanying libation so it's a no-brainer to stop at Mistaken Identity Vineyards for a bottle of Bianco and a tasting.


We're kayaking from Ganges to Chocolate Beach, a gleaming white shell beach on Third Sister Island, for a romantic picnic and to watch the sunset. This little cutie greets us as we arrive.


Ahhh, perfect. A steamy 28 degrees, not a cloud in the sky, wine, cheese, triple chocolate chip cookies and only a couple of other people at the far end of the beach. Bring on the love!



Oops. So much for that. Twelve other kayakers blast right into our love fest. Kinda rude but the sunset is everyone's so if you can't beat 'em, join 'em (we're still not sharing our wine with them).


This has to be the cutest outhouse in the world.






Did we mention Tim loves Canada?


The Saturday farmer's market, held in Centennial Park in the heart of Ganges, is a must-see. This weekly gathering is a glorious melee of islanders and visitors, dogs and children, craftspeople, food vendors, jugglers, and musicians. Everything for sale must be handmade or homegrown, so it's as much a feast for the eyes as for the stomach.


Bull kelp is a common sight in these island waters.


Whoever said Victoria was for the newlywed and nearly dead needs to take a second look. Although it certainly has its fair share of the blue-rinse brigade, it is a romantic place and, in the past decade, has evolved into a thriving city. We start at the Fairmont Empress Hotel which serves its famed epicurean feast in the Tea Lobby and elsewhere as the throngs of tea-takers dictate.


It's an ivy-adorned, 1908 harbour-side landmark, and staying here is the quintessential Victoria experience.




The view from our sprawling balcony at the Coast Victoria Harbourside Hotel.


Moon over Victoria.


By night, this architectural gem is lit by more than 3,300 lights so it looks more like Hogwarts School for Wizards than the provincial Parliament Buildings. Designed by then-25-year-old Francis Rattenbury, one of the most sought-after architects of the day, the buildings were constructed between 1893 and 1898 at a cost of nearly C$1 million.


The interior is equally mystical, filled with mosaics, marble, woodwork, and stained glass.





Within walking distance of the downtown core is Beacon Hill Park, an oasis of indigenous Garry oaks, floral gardens, windswept heath, ponds and totem poles.


At 38.8 metres (127 ft) Beacon Hill Park boasts the world's fourth-tallest totem pole. When it was built and erected in 1956 it was the world's tallest.


One does declaaare, their Royal Highnesses aaare coming. Heavens above! How smashing!


If you've got it, flaunt it. That's what coal baron Robert Dunsmuir (the wealthiest and most influential man in British Columbia back in the 1880s) decided to do. More than a home, Highland-style Craigdarroch Castle rises 87 stairs through five floors of Victorian opulence—and there's not an elevator to be had!



Sandi's thinking, "I could live here."


This is the best room service meal we've ever had.


At Fisherman's Wharf.


John Murchie immigrated to Canada from Scotland in 1894 and founded Murchie's Tea & Coffee in New Westminster, BC. Little could he have imagined, back in the mid-1800s when he worked for Melrose's Tea of Scotland and first delivered tea to Queen Victoria at Balmoral Castle, that people like us would still be enjoying his blends today.


A thirty-minute drive from Victoria is Butchart Gardens. Converted from an exhausted limestone quarry back in 1904, it is an impressive place: 20 hectares (49 acres) of gardens, and not a blade of grass out of place! Just shows what having 50 gardeners can do.


The Butchart home.


The Sunken Garden.


The Ross Fountain.




Dahlia heaven.



Every flower is grown to be a perfect match to the other in height, colour, and tone, including the 300,000 bulbs that bloom in Spring.





The Japanese Garden.


The Italian Garden.

We're ferrying over to Friday Harbor, San Juan Island now. Do join us again soohhn for paaart two of our island hop. Toodle pip!