Margaritaville

To celebrate Sandi’s birthday Tim arranges a little fun n’sun in the Mexican Riviera.

We stay with friends and barely settle in before margaritas are served with a spectacular view of Banderas Bay.

Tim is enjoying Sandi’s birthday as much as she is.

The view of the city from the balcony outside our room.

It couldn’t possibly get any better than this.

A flame tree, aptly named, takes center stage in Janet and John’s yard, a favourite spot for Grackle birds (below) to take in the panoramic ocean view.

Janet and John treat us to an afternoon of sailing around Banderas Bay on their sailboat.

Yup, Tim wants one.

At the helm, the infamous Captain Don Juan Algodon.

The stunning sink in our bathroom. Mexico is world-renowned for it’s skilled ceramics painters.

John and Janet take us to the Botanical Gardens near Boca de Tomatlan where we see a stunning display of native Mexican plants. Look at the unusual turquoise colour of these!

Sandi among the lush bougainvillea.

An Oriole’s nest sways in the breeze near our lunch spot by the river.

Playa Mismaloya is a beautiful sheltered cove. This is where The Night of the Iguana, the movie that made Puerto Vallarta famous with the international jet set, was filmed.

Wastin’ away again in Margaritaville.

How spoiled are we? Janet and John arrange a strolling minstrel to come to the house to serenade us into the evening. Happy hour at their house is always at 8 p.m.—perfect timing to watch the sun set before dinner. Simply magical.

Here’s a little sample for your listening pleasure.

We drive to the laid-back surfer’s paradise of Sayulita beach, north of Punta Mita, for the day.

Originally discovered in the late 1500s and settled in 1603, the town of San Sebastian peaked as a center of mining operations, swelling to a population of over 30,000 by the mid-1800s. Today, with roughly 600 year-round residents, it retains all of the charm of a village locked in time, with an old church, a coffee plantation, and an underground tunnel system.

You can tug on Superman’s cape, you can spit into the wind, but don’t ever mess around with tequila in Mexico. Tequila lovers savour the subtle flavours of the agave spirit and prefer to take it like wine, sip by sip, over the course of an entire meal. We stop at a family-run operation to learn how it’s made. Tim tries his hand at smashing the cooked agave cactus to extract it’s juice for the next step of fermentation. 

Sandi in a field of Blue Agave cactus almost ready for harvesting.

Today we head to tranquil Yelapa—a cove straight out of a tropical fantasy and only accessible by boat. Yelapa has no cars and one paved (pedestrian only) road and it only acquired electricity in the past 10 years.

We intend to have a day of snorkelling and swimming but unfortunately we don’t get much beyond these beers and a bit of salsa as shortly after this photo is taken Tim swims into a cluster of jellyfish and is badly stung.

Time for some sight-seeing and treasure hunting for local wares starting with this colourful tile shop.

Puerto Vallarta’s streets retain a cobblestone charm that weaves its way through time; they’re full of tiny shops, rows of windows edged with curling wrought iron, and vistas of red-tile roofs and the sea. One of the greatest pleasures to be had is simply wandering its streets.

The picturesque Church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, topped with a curious crown held in place by angels—a replica of the one worn by Empress Carlota during her brief time in Mexico as Emperor Maximilian’s wife.

Puerto Vallarta offers the best selection of Huichol art in Mexico. Descendants of the Aztecs the Huichol are one of the last remaining indigenous cultures in the world that has remained true to its traditions, customs, language, and habitat. Beaded pieces are made on carved wooden shapes depicting different animals, wooden eggs, or small bowls made from gourds.

The pieces are covered with beeswax, and tiny glass, chaquira beads are applied one by one to form designs. Usually the beaded designs represent animals, plants, the elements of fire, water or air, and certain symbols that give a special meaning to the whole.

Tim having fun on the malecón.

These little cuties are the favoured breed around these parts.

We hire a panga (a small, motorized boat) at Playa Anclote to take us snorkelling to the Marietas Islands just offshore.

These uninhabited islands are a great place for bird-watching, diving, snorkelling, or just exploring. Blue-footed Booby birds (found only here and in the Galapagos) dawdle along the islands’ rocky coast, and giant mantas, sea turtles, and colourful tropical fish swim among the coral cliffs.

The islands are honeycombed with caves and hidden beaches—including the stunning Playa de Amor (Beach of Love) that appears only at low tide. Our driver warns us if two go in three come out but at our age we aren’t too worried.

After snorkelling it’s time for lunch on the beach at The Blue Shrimp Restaurant.

Our last night in Puerto Vallarta calls for something special—dinner at the renowned boutique hotel, Hacienda San Angel. Although not on the beach you’d hardly miss the surf since it offers beautiful vistas of the city and Bay of Banderas. Once the home of Richard Burton, the Hacienda lies just behind Puerto Vallarta’s famed church and, in fact, looks somewhat like a church itself. We are courted by the vibrant melodies of the Mariachis as we savour delicious scallop ceviche in these intoxicating, lavish surroundings.

Our deepest thanks Janet and John. We have so many wonderful memories of our vacation—for the most part thanks to your incredible kindness, generosity and warm hospitality. Salud to you and Mexico!