Vietnam is a nation of determined optimists who have weathered war upon war; survived colonialism, a closed society and communist rule; and come out alive and kicking as an intact culture—the latest Asian dragon to awake from its slumber.
We head to the island of Phu Quoc off the southwest coast—one of Vietnam’s star attractions, mountainous and forested, it is a tropical getaway set with beautiful white-sand beaches and quaint fishing villages. We motorbike the dirt roads circling the island and snorkel the beautiful coral reefs.
Daily life in the fishing villages of Phu Quoc Island.
Enter the Mekong Delta, a world of water, a carpet of dazzling greens in the rice basket of the country, a place for slow boating, markets floating and delicious fish. The largest city in the Mekong, Can Tho, is a buzzing town with a lively waterfront. The political, economic, cultural and transportation heart of the Mekong Delta, Can Tho hums with activity. We hire a boat to see the early morning action at Cai Rang, the biggest floating market in the area.
Our boatman pulls up to this lady to order up a delicious, traditional Vietnamese breakfast called Pho, a hot rice noodle soup with vegetables and meat or seafood.
Practically all the local women (and some men) wear traditional conical hats called non la—very cool and comfortable to keep the blazing sun off our faces.
The Elephant Ear fish is a staple on most restaurant menus in the region. This poor chap looks as if he senses his destiny.
If every town had a symbol, Saigon’s (Ho Chi Minh City) would be surely be the motorbike. More than three million of them fly along streets once swarming with bicycles. Teeming markets, sidewalk cafes, massage parlours, acupuncture clinics, centuries-old pagodas and sleek skyscrapers all jockey for attention against the bustling backdrop. Yet the city hasn’t forgotten its past. The ghosts live on in the churches, temples, former GI hotels and government buildings that one generation ago witnessed a city in turmoil.
We tour one of the city’s landmarks, the Reunification Palace, built in 1966 to serve as South Vietnam’s Presidential Palace. It was through the gates of this building that the first communist tanks in Saigon crashed on the morning of April 30, 1975, the day Saigon surrendered.
Our friend Chris in New York puts us in touch with Colm, a friend of his who has been living in Vietnam for 20 years and he kindly walks us to sights like the beautiful post office, designed by Gustave Eiffel a la Eiffel Tower in Paris. Colm gives us fascinating, eye-opening information on the city and country and its workings over a few pints of ale at his favourite Irish pub. Many thanks Chris and Colm!
The War Remnants Museum is a heartbreaking reminder of the atrocities of war. The displays include military hardware such as tanks and fighter jets as well as tiger cages used to house Viet Cong prisoners, and photographs of those who suffered birth defects caused by the USA’s use of defoliants such as Agent Orange.
The tunnel network at Cu Chi was the stuff of legend during the 1960s for its role in facilitating Viet Cong control of a large rural area 30 km from Saigon. At its height, the tunnel system stretched from Saigon to the Cambodian border. In the district of Cu Chi alone, there were more than 200 km of tunnels, three levels deep. After ground operations targeting the tunnels claimed large numbers of US casualties and proved ineffective, the Americans turned their artillery and bombers on the area, transforming it into a moonscape.
Even with ear protection we are deafened when we try shooting an M-16 rifle like those used in the war. Neither of us gets close to the wooden bunny target. Tim decides his nine iron is a better piece of metal to wield and Sandi’s metal of choice remains her eyelash curler.
Tay Ninh town serves as the headquarters to one of Vietnam’s most interesting (weird) indigenous religions, Cao Dai. It contains elements of Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, native Vietnamese spiritualism, Christianity and Islam—as well as a dash of secular enlightenment thrown in for good measure. Victor Hugo is among the Westerners especially revered by the Cao Dai. Enough said.
We’re heading north now to the coastal beach town of Mui Ne and beyond. Yo! (That's Cheers! in Vietnamese.)
We head to the island of Phu Quoc off the southwest coast—one of Vietnam’s star attractions, mountainous and forested, it is a tropical getaway set with beautiful white-sand beaches and quaint fishing villages. We motorbike the dirt roads circling the island and snorkel the beautiful coral reefs.
Daily life in the fishing villages of Phu Quoc Island.
Enter the Mekong Delta, a world of water, a carpet of dazzling greens in the rice basket of the country, a place for slow boating, markets floating and delicious fish. The largest city in the Mekong, Can Tho, is a buzzing town with a lively waterfront. The political, economic, cultural and transportation heart of the Mekong Delta, Can Tho hums with activity. We hire a boat to see the early morning action at Cai Rang, the biggest floating market in the area.
Our boatman pulls up to this lady to order up a delicious, traditional Vietnamese breakfast called Pho, a hot rice noodle soup with vegetables and meat or seafood.
Legend has it that the larger boats have ‘eyes’ so they can navigate their way through the maze of canals safely out to sea.
Practically all the local women (and some men) wear traditional conical hats called non la—very cool and comfortable to keep the blazing sun off our faces.
The Elephant Ear fish is a staple on most restaurant menus in the region. This poor chap looks as if he senses his destiny.
If every town had a symbol, Saigon’s (Ho Chi Minh City) would be surely be the motorbike. More than three million of them fly along streets once swarming with bicycles. Teeming markets, sidewalk cafes, massage parlours, acupuncture clinics, centuries-old pagodas and sleek skyscrapers all jockey for attention against the bustling backdrop. Yet the city hasn’t forgotten its past. The ghosts live on in the churches, temples, former GI hotels and government buildings that one generation ago witnessed a city in turmoil.
We tour one of the city’s landmarks, the Reunification Palace, built in 1966 to serve as South Vietnam’s Presidential Palace. It was through the gates of this building that the first communist tanks in Saigon crashed on the morning of April 30, 1975, the day Saigon surrendered.
Our friend Chris in New York puts us in touch with Colm, a friend of his who has been living in Vietnam for 20 years and he kindly walks us to sights like the beautiful post office, designed by Gustave Eiffel a la Eiffel Tower in Paris. Colm gives us fascinating, eye-opening information on the city and country and its workings over a few pints of ale at his favourite Irish pub. Many thanks Chris and Colm!
The War Remnants Museum is a heartbreaking reminder of the atrocities of war. The displays include military hardware such as tanks and fighter jets as well as tiger cages used to house Viet Cong prisoners, and photographs of those who suffered birth defects caused by the USA’s use of defoliants such as Agent Orange.
The tunnel network at Cu Chi was the stuff of legend during the 1960s for its role in facilitating Viet Cong control of a large rural area 30 km from Saigon. At its height, the tunnel system stretched from Saigon to the Cambodian border. In the district of Cu Chi alone, there were more than 200 km of tunnels, three levels deep. After ground operations targeting the tunnels claimed large numbers of US casualties and proved ineffective, the Americans turned their artillery and bombers on the area, transforming it into a moonscape.
Even with ear protection we are deafened when we try shooting an M-16 rifle like those used in the war. Neither of us gets close to the wooden bunny target. Tim decides his nine iron is a better piece of metal to wield and Sandi’s metal of choice remains her eyelash curler.
Tay Ninh town serves as the headquarters to one of Vietnam’s most interesting (weird) indigenous religions, Cao Dai. It contains elements of Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, native Vietnamese spiritualism, Christianity and Islam—as well as a dash of secular enlightenment thrown in for good measure. Victor Hugo is among the Westerners especially revered by the Cao Dai. Enough said.
We’re heading north now to the coastal beach town of Mui Ne and beyond. Yo! (That's Cheers! in Vietnamese.)
3 comments:
I've finally caught up on your blog... Reading about your adventures in Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), brought back memories of when we were there - I can't believe it was 5 years ago already.... How will you ever be able to select a 'highlight' of your travels - you have SO many. Keep on blogging!!!
oxorchid
Hi there, its your very errant nephew-in-law here! Remember me? I am SOOO sorry that you have heard absoliutely nada from me since I retook the reigns and returned to work at the beginning of February. Where has the time gone? And where have you both got to? Its Easter w/e and we're up in Lincolnshire with T&C, they send love and Tessa is squarking about not receiving an email back from you Tim, and so is James! As I said, I'm back at the coalface which is hugely enjoyable although very quiet...credit crunch. Nothing much more to report, I will enjoy your blogging and pix when I get a mo. LOL Ed xx PS Nugs wants to write, she's got lots to tell.
Dearest Sandi and Tim
I'm can't believe this is my first blog to you - Ed was to speedy in the beginning and then distracted by return to work hence our silence! Max and I have just had the most wonderful holiday with Hoods in Chatel thanks to Tessa & Charlie squeezing us in. Max very excited to be sharing a room with Mummy and really took to skiing. By the end of our five days he was flying down the green path from Plaine Dranse to Pres Le Joux and got down the red run once! Fully mastered button lifts and thought chairlift and bubble were brilliant. He has Topham/Lovell genes for skiing and can't wait to go again. It was very special and emotional for me watching him get the hang of it and meant a great deal to have Tessa there witnessing it all as Mum couldn't be. Hope your both still well and having an amazing time. Lots of love Nuggy
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