Sunday, March 1, 2009

Angkorin' for Divine Inspiration

The Temples of Angkor just outside the city of Siem Reap are the heart and soul of Cambodia and the perfect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devotion. The Cambodian 'god-kings' of old each strove to better their ancestors in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in the world's largest religious building, Angkor Wat. The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social centre of Cambodia's ancient Khmer empire (AD802-1432); a city that, at its zenith, boasted a population of one million when London was a scrawny town of 50,000.



Sandi picks her spot next to the gods at the south gate entrance of Angkor Thom. In front of each of the four entrance gates stands a long line of 54 gods to the left and 54 demons to the right.


We feel like we are being watched at the Bayon Temple where more that 200 carved stone faces, thought to be portraits of the Khmer King Jayavarman VII, gaze down from the lofty towers, giving us a distinct inferiority complex.




We gaze down at the crowds below but don't seem to have the same effect on the tourists as the carved faces.


Ta Prohm, made more famous by Lara Croft in the movie Tomb Raider, is being swallowed up by the jungle.


Tim and ‘Angelina’.





Angkor Wat is the largest and undoubtedly the most breathtaking of the monuments at Angkor, and is widely believed to be the largest religious structure in the world. It is simply unique, a stunning and enduring example of man's devotion to his gods.


Angkor Wat is famous for its beguiling apsaras (heavenly nymphs).


A beautiful, little girl sells flowers at the temples.


The Banteay Srei (Citadel of the Women) is considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art. A Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, it is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving seen anywhere on earth.



Close-up of the elaborate carvings that adorn the temples.


We enjoy a colourful cultural evening of Cambodian traditional dance.


From Siem Reap we board the Mekong Express boat for the six-hour journey to Phnom Penh and pass typical sights like this. Houses are all built on stilts to accommodate the rise and fall of the waters from the monsoon season.


The most exquisite flower we've seen.


In Phnom Penh we stroll the riverfront and tour the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda and delve into the dark side of Cambodian history with a visit to the Tuol Sleng and Landmines Museum where we learn about the horrors of the Khmer Rouge revolution.


After fuelling up at this gas station we taxi south to the tiny seaside town of Kep, founded as a colonial retreat for the French elite in 1908. Sadly, the town once anticipated to be the new Cambodian riviera, has fallen into neglect but making a slow comeback.


At the head of Kep beach is a kitsch nude statue of a local fisherman's wife.


From Kep to the blissful beaches and tropical islands of Sihanoukville to soak up some sun.


Tim likes the two for one margaritas he sees on the menu.


Same same, happy happy.



We take a taxi to the Cambodia/Vietnam border at Ha Tien. As it's only been open to foreigners for less than a year the only means of transport is through the 15 km 'no-man's-land' zone to Vietnam by Cambodian guy on motorbike. We need to hire three bikes with drivers: one for Tim, one for Sandi and one for our backpacks.

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