Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Tea, Treks and Temples

When the noted scientist and author Sir Arthur C. Clarke made his home in Sri Lanka in 1956 he claimed that Sri Lanka was the best place in the world from which to view the universe. We set off to test his statement in its capital city, Colombo at the 142 year old Galle Face Hotel where he lived for several years. It was so beautiful, set steps from the oceanfront, we were off to a good start.

You may have heard the news about the government forces battling the Tamil Tigers in the north. As a result there are hardly any tourists in the country. With troops at every street corner in Colombo we felt safe and after a few days of relaxation we ventured forth to the ancient capitals of central Sri Lanka.


In the ancient city of Anuradhapura lies the Thuparama Dagoba—the oldest dagoba in Sri Lanka, and probably the oldest stupa in the world dating to the 3rd century BC. A dagoba or stupa is a Buddhist monument containing relics of the Buddha or Buddhist saint.


Built in the 3rd century BC the Jetavanarama Dagoba's massive dome can be seen for miles around. At the time it was built it was the third-tallest monument in the world, the first two being Egyptian pyramids. There are enough bricks in the dagoba's core to make a 3m-high wall stretching from one end of Sri Lanka to the other.


We climb Meditation Rock at Mihintale. This sight is of enormous significance because it is where Buddhism originated in Sri Lanka.


We pay our respects to the Buddha at Mihintale.


Reclining Buddha statue at Isurumuniya Vihara, Anuradhapura.


As we drive around Sri Lanka we encounter wild animals roaming freely such as this wild elephant in the middle of traffic.


We admire the intricately carved guardstones at the ruins of Polonnaruwa, one of the sights of the royal capital. Although nearly a thousand years old it is much younger than Anuradhapura, the first capital in 380 BC.


The Gal Vihara is a group of four beautiful Buddha carvings, all cut from one long slab of granite. Sandi basks in the serene gaze of the 14 metre long reclining Buddha entering nirvana.


We study the reclining Buddha statues and admire the intensely-painted murals inside the beautiful Royal Rock Cave Temples at Dambulla.


Sunset at the cave temples.


Rising 200 metres straight up over the dusty plains of north central Sri Lanka, the flat-topped rock formation of Sigiriya is not only one of the islands most impressive geological formations but also one of its greatest archaeological legacies. Popular myth says that the rock served royal and military functions from the 5th century AD but a new theory says that Sigiriya was in fact a long-standing Buddhist monastery built several centuries earlier.



We climb up to a natural cave halfway up the sheer rock face to view impressive frescoes of buxom women—intended to represent Tara Devi, an important Buddhist goddess. Locals believe they date as far back as the 5th century but no one knows precisely. Most remain in remarkable condition with vibrant colours having been protected from the elements and undiscovered until the middle of the 19th century.


Pondering the enigma of Sigiriya (Lion Rock) we climb its near-vertical rock face on iron ladders built by British engineers in 1938. Tim sweats heavily when he notices several of the steps rusting through.


We continue on to Kandy, originally Sri Lanka's capital city before it was moved to Colombo in 1815, and are entertained by Kandyan dancers and fire eaters. Kandy was a popular hill station retreat during British rule.


South to Adam's Peak, the second highest mountain in Sri Lanka, imaginatively known as the place where Adam first set foot on earth after being cast out of heaven.



Rising at 1:30 a.m. to slog 7 km up the lofty Adam's Peak (2243m) we are rewarded by a perfect sunrise. The journey involves a vertical ascent of 1200 metres and took a gruelling three hours to hike up the 4,800 steps and a further leg-burning two hours, twenty minutes to get down. We had to buy Ayurvedic balm to soothe our muscles which still ache.



As the sun rises higher it casts an eerie triangular shadow of the peak onto the misty clouds.


Famous world-wide for its Ceylon tea, we toured Mackwoods factory just outside of Newara Elia and for queen and country, Tim sips a spot of Orange Pekoe with views overlooking the tea plants.

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