The state of Kerela is where India slips down into second gear and stops to smell the jasmine. The backwaters that meander through it are the emerald jewel in South India's crown. Here, spindly networks of rivers, canals and lagoons nourish a seemingly infinite number of rice paddies and coconut groves, while sleek houseboats cruise the water highways from one bucolic village to another. Along the coast, slices of perfect, sandy beach beckon the sun-worshipping crowd, and far inland the highlands are covered in vast plantations of spices and tea. Exotic wildlife also thrives in the hills, for those who need more than just the smell of cardamom growing to get their juices flowing.
We soak in the culture and serenity of captivating Fort Cochin, a trading-post city echoing hundreds of years of colonial history. Giant fishing nets influenced by Chinese merchants, a 16th century synagogue alongside Christian churches, ancient mosques, Portuguese houses built half a millennia ago and the crumbling residuum of the British Raj—the result is an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country village grafted on to the Malabar Coast.
Cantilevered Chinese fishing nets in Fort Cochin—a legacy of traders from the court of Kubla Khan in around the 1400s, the enormous, spider-like contraptions require at least four men to operate the counter weights.
We tour a spice warehouse and took in a Kathikali performance. Elements of the art form of Kathikali stem from 2nd century temple rituals and are a dramatised presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics of Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. All the great themes are covered—righteousness and evil, frailty and courage, poverty and prosperity, war and peace. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell the story through their precise movements, particularly mudras (hand gestures) and facial expressions. Preparation for the performance is lengthy and disciplined. Paint, fantastic costumes, highly decorated headpieces and meditation transform the actors both physically and mentally into the gods, heroes and demons they are about to play.
After some Christmas shopping in Fort Kochi we hire a driver to take us to Munnar with its backdrop of rolling mountain scenery, craggy peaks, manicured tea estates and crisp mountain air.
Sandi waist-deep in tea.
In Eravikulam National Park we spot the rare, but almost tame, Nilgiri tahr (a type of mountain goat).
South to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary for some elephant spotting. On our early morning trek we see giant squirrel, black monkeys (above), a wild dog devouring a kill but no elephants so we take matters into our own (now sore) saddles and find our own.
A slice of Venice in the heart of Kerela, Alleppey is the base to foray into the dreamy backwaters on a houseboat. We opt for luxury and hire a private kettuvallam (designed like a traditional rice barge) on Christmas Day for one night. It comes complete with teak-panelled bedroom, A/C, shower, flush loo!!!, captain, chef and waiter and we indulge in what is to become one of the highlights of our trip. We sing Christmas carols and herald a talented crow who joins in our choir.
Local transport on the water highways near Alleppey.
The next best thing to turkey.
Sunset on the backwaters.
After Christmas we head further south still to the sensational cliffs of Varkala—a strand of golden beach nuzzling the cliff edge and more Bob Marley music that you can poke a dread-locked backpacker at, the vibe here is faithfully laid-back. We kick back on the shimmering beaches of Varkala and Kovallam (just 50 km from India's southernmost tip) by day and feast on seafood by night.
Sandi discovers where Santa goes for some R & R after he has delivered all the gifts.
Fashion Find
Sandi sports the lovely emerald ring Tim gave her for Christmas. In a traditional, simple, symmetrical Kerelan style—a combination of silver and gold with a stone in the middle and a motif on either side and bottom usually denoting the family that created it. Tim chose the heart motif to symbolize our love, befitting the season.
We fly from Trivandrum to Chennai on the east coast of India in the state of Tamil Nadu for a New Years Eve bash at the Promenade Hotel in the French-influenced village of Pondicherry where Tim sports his Christmas present from Sandi—an emerald green Indian tunic. Happy New Year!!!
Our last stop to explore some of India's finest rock carvings in Mamallapuram. It was once the second capital and seaport of the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram. The village is listed as a World Heritage site and remains a renowned centre for stone carving where you see and hear the constant tapping of hammer and chisel as artisans chip away at exquisite sculptures.
Tim admires the view from the beach restaurant where we ate lunch—in the background the famous Shore Temple, constructed around the middle of the 7th century, stands alone and majestic facing the Bay of Bengal.
Sandi thinks she moved the huge boulder known as Krishna's Butterball but locals and Tim are unmoved by her effort.
UPDATE January 5
We are posting this from the historic Galle Face Hotel in Columbo, Sri Lanka after 3 months of exploring India. Namaste India! Tomorrow we leave for a 15-20 day tour of the country—first to the northern ancient cities...
We soak in the culture and serenity of captivating Fort Cochin, a trading-post city echoing hundreds of years of colonial history. Giant fishing nets influenced by Chinese merchants, a 16th century synagogue alongside Christian churches, ancient mosques, Portuguese houses built half a millennia ago and the crumbling residuum of the British Raj—the result is an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country village grafted on to the Malabar Coast.
Cantilevered Chinese fishing nets in Fort Cochin—a legacy of traders from the court of Kubla Khan in around the 1400s, the enormous, spider-like contraptions require at least four men to operate the counter weights.
We tour a spice warehouse and took in a Kathikali performance. Elements of the art form of Kathikali stem from 2nd century temple rituals and are a dramatised presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics of Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. All the great themes are covered—righteousness and evil, frailty and courage, poverty and prosperity, war and peace. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell the story through their precise movements, particularly mudras (hand gestures) and facial expressions. Preparation for the performance is lengthy and disciplined. Paint, fantastic costumes, highly decorated headpieces and meditation transform the actors both physically and mentally into the gods, heroes and demons they are about to play.
After some Christmas shopping in Fort Kochi we hire a driver to take us to Munnar with its backdrop of rolling mountain scenery, craggy peaks, manicured tea estates and crisp mountain air.
Sandi waist-deep in tea.
In Eravikulam National Park we spot the rare, but almost tame, Nilgiri tahr (a type of mountain goat).
South to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary for some elephant spotting. On our early morning trek we see giant squirrel, black monkeys (above), a wild dog devouring a kill but no elephants so we take matters into our own (now sore) saddles and find our own.
A slice of Venice in the heart of Kerela, Alleppey is the base to foray into the dreamy backwaters on a houseboat. We opt for luxury and hire a private kettuvallam (designed like a traditional rice barge) on Christmas Day for one night. It comes complete with teak-panelled bedroom, A/C, shower, flush loo!!!, captain, chef and waiter and we indulge in what is to become one of the highlights of our trip. We sing Christmas carols and herald a talented crow who joins in our choir.
Local transport on the water highways near Alleppey.
The next best thing to turkey.
Sunset on the backwaters.
After Christmas we head further south still to the sensational cliffs of Varkala—a strand of golden beach nuzzling the cliff edge and more Bob Marley music that you can poke a dread-locked backpacker at, the vibe here is faithfully laid-back. We kick back on the shimmering beaches of Varkala and Kovallam (just 50 km from India's southernmost tip) by day and feast on seafood by night.
Sandi discovers where Santa goes for some R & R after he has delivered all the gifts.
Fashion Find
Sandi sports the lovely emerald ring Tim gave her for Christmas. In a traditional, simple, symmetrical Kerelan style—a combination of silver and gold with a stone in the middle and a motif on either side and bottom usually denoting the family that created it. Tim chose the heart motif to symbolize our love, befitting the season.
We fly from Trivandrum to Chennai on the east coast of India in the state of Tamil Nadu for a New Years Eve bash at the Promenade Hotel in the French-influenced village of Pondicherry where Tim sports his Christmas present from Sandi—an emerald green Indian tunic. Happy New Year!!!
Our last stop to explore some of India's finest rock carvings in Mamallapuram. It was once the second capital and seaport of the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram. The village is listed as a World Heritage site and remains a renowned centre for stone carving where you see and hear the constant tapping of hammer and chisel as artisans chip away at exquisite sculptures.
Tim admires the view from the beach restaurant where we ate lunch—in the background the famous Shore Temple, constructed around the middle of the 7th century, stands alone and majestic facing the Bay of Bengal.
Sandi thinks she moved the huge boulder known as Krishna's Butterball but locals and Tim are unmoved by her effort.
UPDATE January 5
We are posting this from the historic Galle Face Hotel in Columbo, Sri Lanka after 3 months of exploring India. Namaste India! Tomorrow we leave for a 15-20 day tour of the country—first to the northern ancient cities...
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