The marble Jain temples at Ranakpur are jaw-droppingly beautiful with exquisitely detailed relief carvings covering every square inch of the exterior and interior. Built in 1446 by the Jains, the most orthodox of Hindus who are strict vegetarians and walk with care to ensure no insects should die underfoot and even wear permanent masks to protect the tiniest bug from being ingested.
We now reach the city of Jodhpur, nicknamed The Blue City, and where the jodhpur pant originated. It is the second largest city in Rajasthan and boasts the best fort, Mehrangarh (meaning majestic). Among the highlights is the gorgeous royal chamber, seen here, where the Maharaja entertained his 30+ wives, not counting the concubines. Don't you love all these fascinating facts?
A happy local invites us for a snort from his hookah pipe ensuring us the palace will look even more beautiful after a couple of puffs. We decline his generous offer having seen the low railings and the 400 ft. drop to the cliffs below.
The Umaid Palace in Jodhpur built in the early 1900s has 347 rooms and even a cinema. It was at that time the largest private residence in the world. A vivid reminder of the decadence the Rajput rulers enjoyed during the British Raj. It took 3000 labourers 13 years to complete. The current Maharaja of Jodhpur inhabits a portion of the palace but the other half has been converted to a 64 room hotel run by the Taj Group. It was here that British model/actress Elizabeth Hurley and her Indian husband, Arun Nayer, celebrated their wedding reception. If it's good enough for Liz it's good enough for us so we put on airs and receive a private tour.
Sandi takes a moment to relax at a haveli on top of Jaisalmer's golden fort, Sonar Killa, reputed to be the oldest living fortified city in Rajasthan from the mid-12th century. Jaisalmer is located in the Thar Dessert on the far western border of India, only 34 miles from Pakistan and famous for its camel safaris into the sand dunes...
Who are we to resist a tourist trap? We arrive at dusk to board our camels for an hour-long ride to the dunes. To cap it off Tim arranges a romantic dinner alone in the desert—a magical experience as we are serenaded by the stars, big ugly beetles, and gypsy musicians. We use the occasion to taste our first bottle of Indian wine. The shock only came the next day when Tim got his "Extras" bill for $80 worth of wine—about 3 bottles. Did we really drink that much? The vague recollection of being rolled back to our tent in the back of a camel cart and waking up the next morning with throbbing heads probably means, yes.
It's difficult to get photos of locals going about everyday life because as soon as we try everyone, from the most remote villagers to the urbanites, expects a tip as Tim discovers as he snapped these local women carrying water and proceed to come running from a far distance.
We love staying in old havelis, which are traditional, ornately decorated residences owned by the wealthy merchants and nobles of Rajasthan. Havelis that have been converted into hotels are one of Rajasthans best bargains. Here, in Bikaner, we are at Bhairon Vilas, a 300 hundred year old haveli, now run as a hotel by the grandson of the Prime Minister of Bikaner. The city only became part of India following Independence in 1947. We get the Maharaja Suite full of hunting trophies and wonderful faded photos of a bygone era for only $35/night.
We shuffle around Shekawati in search of some of its frescoed havelis, a unique feature of the region. Here we spend the night in Mandawa, a subdued little merchant town settled in the 18th century and fortified by dominant merchant families and stay at yet another gorgeous haveli, the romantic Mandawa Haveli, one of the most beautifully painted in town.
A charming painting on the wall of an historic haveli in Mandawa.
Tim surprises Sandi with two nights at the stunning Neemrana Fort Palace Hotel (above), purchased by two historians who spotted the ruin while researching a book on Rajasthan and sensitively and painstakingly restored it. Kate Winslet has a favourite room here which we sneek a peek at. We sip wine and dine under the stars stuffing ourselves with the best food we've had so far in India ending the glory with matching headaches and Buddha bellies.
Fashion Find
After three months living out of a backpack Sandi was feeling the need to femme it up and just in time, there it was... the most beautiful silver, tribal antique jewellery from the Rajasthan region. Darlingest Mr. Tim surprises her with this exquisite pendant (below photo) and, always wanting more, she sets out on a mission to find and bargain hard for a bracelet too.
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