After the smell and dirt of Varanasi, our short 35-minute flight brings us to Khajuraho, a small town of 20,000 inhabitants. Before we expore the erotic temples we decide to clear our lungs from the pollution and lingering smell of burning bodies from Varanasi on a jeep safari at Panna Tiger Reserve, a half hour journey from Khajuraho. Sadly no tigers spotted but lots of exotic birds, deer, monkeys and our own private jeep, full of "jungle love".
The Kamasutra carvings that swathe Khajuraho's temples are among the finest temple art in the world. Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by Chardravarman, the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended on a beautiful maiden as she bathed in a stream. The Chandela dynasty built the temples, many of which originally rose from a lake, and survived for five centuries before falling to the Mughal onslaught. Most of the 85 temples—of which some 25 remain—were built from AD 950-1050. Why all the sex? The best explanation is that these tantric images are a gratification of the baser instincts - one way to transcend the evils of the world and achieve enlightenment. Physical enjoyment and yoga are seen as equally valid in this quest for orgasm, er, rather, nirvana. Hope you're inspired!
Once up close the exquisite carvings come to life. At first glance, romance blooms.
But it doesn't take long for the action to heat up. Watch your back!
Can you figure out what's going on below?!
There's limited transport options so we're forced to rent a private van to reach the town of Orchha (meaning Hidden Place), smaller than Khajuraho with just 8,000 people. Orchha is one of India's most fabulous Mughal heritage sites but mercifully free of development making this a hassle-free, relaxing stop. Founded in 1531 it was the capital of the Bundela kings and is full of beautiful temples, fortresses and cenotaphs, commemorating Orchha's historic rulers.
Makeup, hindi-style.
Tim researched hotels and found the Amar Mahal, a wonderful discovery at just $75/night. Better still, we are the ONLY guests so they give us an executive suite poolside.
This incredible temple view was take from the loo window. We spend a lot of time in the loo.
After the luxury of private cars we thought we needed to see how the "other half" travelled and boarded the Taj Express train from Jhansi to Agra—not as romantic as it sounds. The air-conditioned coach was OK and a bargain at $8/ticket for the three hour journey. Agra is "agra"-vation, not a must-see destination and with little to offer but with one exception... the magnificent Taj Mahal. We tried to be the first tourists before the sun rose at 6 a.m. but the pollution was so bad our views of the Taj were as blurry as our eyes. Still, absolutely stunning and as magical as the books tell you.
A "wow" moment—we REALLY were there!
The Kamasutra carvings that swathe Khajuraho's temples are among the finest temple art in the world. Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by Chardravarman, the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended on a beautiful maiden as she bathed in a stream. The Chandela dynasty built the temples, many of which originally rose from a lake, and survived for five centuries before falling to the Mughal onslaught. Most of the 85 temples—of which some 25 remain—were built from AD 950-1050. Why all the sex? The best explanation is that these tantric images are a gratification of the baser instincts - one way to transcend the evils of the world and achieve enlightenment. Physical enjoyment and yoga are seen as equally valid in this quest for orgasm, er, rather, nirvana. Hope you're inspired!
Once up close the exquisite carvings come to life. At first glance, romance blooms.
But it doesn't take long for the action to heat up. Watch your back!
Can you figure out what's going on below?!
There's limited transport options so we're forced to rent a private van to reach the town of Orchha (meaning Hidden Place), smaller than Khajuraho with just 8,000 people. Orchha is one of India's most fabulous Mughal heritage sites but mercifully free of development making this a hassle-free, relaxing stop. Founded in 1531 it was the capital of the Bundela kings and is full of beautiful temples, fortresses and cenotaphs, commemorating Orchha's historic rulers.
Makeup, hindi-style.
Tim researched hotels and found the Amar Mahal, a wonderful discovery at just $75/night. Better still, we are the ONLY guests so they give us an executive suite poolside.
This incredible temple view was take from the loo window. We spend a lot of time in the loo.
After the luxury of private cars we thought we needed to see how the "other half" travelled and boarded the Taj Express train from Jhansi to Agra—not as romantic as it sounds. The air-conditioned coach was OK and a bargain at $8/ticket for the three hour journey. Agra is "agra"-vation, not a must-see destination and with little to offer but with one exception... the magnificent Taj Mahal. We tried to be the first tourists before the sun rose at 6 a.m. but the pollution was so bad our views of the Taj were as blurry as our eyes. Still, absolutely stunning and as magical as the books tell you.
A "wow" moment—we REALLY were there!
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