Dizzying Delhi

With its tenacious touts and crush of mechanical and human traffic—Delhi is at once confronting, confounding and captivating. We stay two days, really just a stop-over en route to Nepal, but we now feel we have a good taste of what we’re in for when we return to India for two months after Bhutan. After 30 minutes fending for ourselves on the chaotic streets, we realize the only way to go is by private/guide in an air-conditioned car, so Tim springs 1000 rupees ($25US) for the day—amazingly inexpensive for a private chauffeur compared to the rest of the world and worth every cent!

Relaxed in a rare moment of quiet meditation (or is he dreaming of golfing with Richard at Stoneybrook?) at The Red Fort—a phenomenal testament to the once-mighty Mughals who ruled from 1526-1857.

The rude reality: entrance fees for locals 10 rupees ($.20US), foreigners 250 rupees ($5.50US).

Humayan’s Tomb—a brilliant example of Mughal architecture built in the 16th century by the Persian-born senior wife of the 2nd Mughal emperor Humayun.

Tim in the shadows at sprawling Humayan’s Tomb.

Don’t get excited all you hopefuls—Sandi doesn’t have a bun in oven or a bulging belly from eating too much paneer and masala naan (well, maybe a little bulge)—it’s just her handbag under a mosque garment. At the Jama Masjid—India’s largest mosque dating to 1644.

The Raj still alive and well and looking “rahtha” dapper.

Qtub Minar, the soaring Tower of Victory built in 1193 immediately after the defeat of the last Hindu kingdom in Delhi.

Our driver was determined to get us into the carpet shop. Can't imagine why? We agree to go for a half hour or so. Two and a half hours, tea, beer, nuts and a carpet making lesson later...

...Tim succumbs and buys a beautiful cashmere Kashmere carpet.... being delivered to Lee Prunkl in Richmond, British Columbia for storage until we return. Thanks mom and dad!

Among adventures to the Gandi Smitri and Raj Ghat (monuments where Mahatma Gandi was shot and cremated) we attempt to dodge the dodgy at the Chandni Chowk bazaar. Unfortunately we don’t have time for the toilet museum because Sandi loses her passport on the plane bound for Kathmandu. The bad news: we had to get off the plane. The good news: the Jet Airways pilot finds it and brings it back from Kathmandu the same day. We can’t believe how lucky this is having given it up for lost. If this had been the case we would have been unable to go onto Nepal and also unable to return into India. The bad news: we have to stay another night in smelly Delhi at a one-star hotel missing out on one day of our pre-booked 5-star hotel in Kathmandu (where we are posting this blog entry). The Dwarika’s Hotel is paradise (www.dwarikas.com). If it’s good enough for Prince Charles, it’s good enough to us.