Where in the world are Sandi and Tim?: Gulf Islands Hop

Magazines such as Conde Nast's Traveler and Travel & Leisure consistently rank Victoria and Vancouver Island among the world's finest visitor destinations. And little wonder. They offer activities at both ends of the spectrum. The islands' home-grown, organic food scene is phenomenal, giving rise to a terrific selection of restaurants and inns (especially in Victoria), so you can literally graze your way from point A to point B. Or you can simply pitch a tent in the rainforest and hike, spelunk, and sea kayak in and around protected inlets, craggy shores, and windswept beaches. We're going to explore some of these close-to-home areas by car, ferry, kayak and foot—primarily the Gulf and San Juan Islands.

As we make our way north towards Campbell River on Vancouver Island, Coombs Old Country Market is the mother of all pit-stops.

The original market was created by Kristian Graaten who emigrated, along with his wife and children, to Vancouver Island from Norway in the 1950s. Kris, who grew up in the small community of Lillehammer, was inspired to include a sod roof in his design of the market. Many Norwegian homes and farm structures are built directly into the hillside with the sod roof becoming an extension of the hillside. With the help of their sons and son-in-law, Larry, Kris unwittingly began to build what would become perhaps the most famous sod-roof building in the world.

Legend has it that, after a few glasses of wine, Larry suggested that they 'borrow' some goats to 'mow' the grass. The goats became permanent tenants of the Coombs market and have been there for more than thirty years. NOTE: In the above photo Tim is not one of the old goats who has been there for more than thirty years.

The market has become such a landmark that an entire landscape has sprouted up in the environs, a haphazard collection of gift and souvenir stores, many of which are fun to browse. We regret not buying this sign.

When Tim's brother and wife gifted us with a shell-shaped dish from Mussels and More for our wedding, Sandi was smitten, not only with her new husband, but also with the pottery. Jan Sell, the founder, has been a self-taught potter for the past 25 years and now that we're here at her flagship store and factory in Campbell River, Sandi's just a little excited and Tim's just a lot worried about his credit card.

"I want them all but if I can only have one (for now... hint, hint, Christmas is coming darling), this gorgeous mussel dish is it! Thank you beloved husbandy for this wonderful present and to you Jan, for letting me drool and dream all over your beautiful creations." - Sandi

We're spending the night at Painter's Lodge in Campbell River. An international favourite of avid fisherman and celebrities, Painter's Lodge has welcomed the likes of Bob Hope, Julie Andrews, Goldie Hawn, and the Prince of Luxembourg. Its location overlooking Discovery Passage is awesome, and its rustic grandeur has a West Coast ambience.

Sandi's Travel Tip: Wherever a girl may roam she should always carry French perfume in her suitcase (and lots of Lululemon).

After breakfast we take a 10-minute ferry ride to Quadra Island and drive to the April Point Resort & Spa. April Point caters to a more soft-adventuring crowd with its kayak, bike, and scooter rentals, as well as its Aveda concept spa at the water's edge.

Despite the cold and rainy weather conditions, the scenery is beautiful and serene.

High on a tree top Mr. and Mrs. Bald Eagle keep a protective eye on junior.

Affectionately called the Discovery Islands, Quadra and Cortes Islands march to the beat of a different drummer. Both are richly pastoral, with stretches of sandy beaches to explore and meandering roads that lead to hidden coves, artist studios, and sudden dead-ends that may or may not have an overgrown path to the beach. Quadra is more mainstream, while Cortes is a haven for those walking the talk of living a holistic, alternative lifestyle.

God is everywhere and in everything reminding us of His presence.

"For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life." John 3:16

Sandy beaches line both sides of Rebecca Spit Marine Provincial Park—a 2-km narrow hook of land on the east side of Quadra Island and a good place for a walk and picnic.

Quadra's fascinating Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre illuminates the heritage and traditions of the First Nations people, showcasing carvings and artifacts and staging traditional dance performances. Behind the museum is "The House of Eagles", a longhouse-like structure used to teach carving, dancing, and other traditional skills.

The lighthouse at Cape Mudge, Quadra Island.

Spectacular sunset views at April Point Resort.

The view from the dining room's not bad either.

The next morning we head to Cortes Island for the day and set out for a paddle from Squirrel Cove. Sandi takes a coffee break while Tim responds to nature's call. Located at the entrance to Desolation Sound, one of British Columbia's most celebrated cruising areas, Cortes Island is a beautiful wilderness hideaway.

The waters abound with Moon Jellyfish.

Tim navigates well and finds the narrow, shallow entrance of near-hidden back end of the cove.

Tim loves Canada.

Just look at this marvel! The colours and design of this exquisite, sparkly, aptly-named Golden Jewel Beetle are incredible.

The next morning, back on Quadra, we launch our kayak from April Point Marina. A Great Blue Heron strikes an elegant pose.

A curious harbour seal pops up to say, "Hello and good-bye!" as we head back to catch the ferry to Salt Spring Island.

We arrive on Salt Spring Island just in time to check into Hedgerow House B&B and settle into the Tree House Café. At this magical outdoor dining experience in the heart of Ganges, we are sitting in the shade of a large plum tree as Tim tucks into Salt Spring Island lamb and Saltspring Island Ales Porter.

The busiest, largest and most developed of the islands, Salt Spring has a reputation for palatial vacation homes, but it's also lined with artist studios and artisan food and drink producers like Salt Spring Island Cheese.

Salt Spring Island Cheese is an idyllic farmstead and a great place for a wander and a tasting or two in the winery-style shop. The Ruckles goat cheese went straight into our picnic basket as did the Bite Me! Triple Chocolate Cookies.

"Goat milk? Sorry, baaaaad joke."

Ruckle Provincial Park is a southeast gem with ragged shorelines and gnarly arbutus forests. It makes for a great afternoon of hiking along with a tour of Ruckle Heritage Farm, BC's oldest working farm.

We're on a picnic-gathering push for our evening paddle and need an accompanying libation so it's a no-brainer to stop at Mistaken Identity Vineyards for a bottle of Bianco and a tasting.

We're kayaking from Ganges to Chocolate Beach, a gleaming white shell beach on Third Sister Island, for a romantic picnic and to watch the sunset. This little cutie greets us as we arrive.

Ahhh, perfect. A steamy 28 degrees, not a cloud in the sky, wine, cheese, triple chocolate chip cookies and only a couple of other people at the far end of the beach. Bring on the love!

Oops. So much for that. Twelve other kayakers blast right into our love fest. Kinda rude but the sunset is everyone's so if you can't beat 'em, join 'em (we're still not sharing our wine with them).

This has to be the cutest outhouse in the world.

Did we mention Tim loves Canada?

The Saturday farmer's market, held in Centennial Park in the heart of Ganges, is a must-see. This weekly gathering is a glorious melee of islanders and visitors, dogs and children, craftspeople, food vendors, jugglers, and musicians. Everything for sale must be handmade or homegrown, so it's as much a feast for the eyes as for the stomach.

Bull kelp is a common sight in these island waters.

Whoever said Victoria was for the newlywed and nearly dead needs to take a second look. Although it certainly has its fair share of the blue-rinse brigade, it is a romantic place and, in the past decade, has evolved into a thriving city. We start at the Fairmont Empress Hotel which serves its famed epicurean feast in the Tea Lobby and elsewhere as the throngs of tea-takers dictate.

It's an ivy-adorned, 1908 harbour-side landmark, and staying here is the quintessential Victoria experience.

The view from our sprawling balcony at the Coast Victoria Harbourside Hotel.

Moon over Victoria.

By night, this architectural gem is lit by more than 3,300 lights so it looks more like Hogwarts School for Wizards than the provincial Parliament Buildings. Designed by then-25-year-old Francis Rattenbury, one of the most sought-after architects of the day, the buildings were constructed between 1893 and 1898 at a cost of nearly C$1 million.

The interior is equally mystical, filled with mosaics, marble, woodwork, and stained glass.

Within walking distance of the downtown core is Beacon Hill Park, an oasis of indigenous Garry oaks, floral gardens, windswept heath, ponds and totem poles.

At 38.8 metres (127 ft) Beacon Hill Park boasts the world's fourth-tallest totem pole. When it was built and erected in 1956 it was the world's tallest.

One does declaaare, their Royal Highnesses aaare coming. Heavens above! How smashing!

If you've got it, flaunt it. That's what coal baron Robert Dunsmuir (the wealthiest and most influential man in British Columbia back in the 1880s) decided to do. More than a home, Highland-style Craigdarroch Castle rises 87 stairs through five floors of Victorian opulence—and there's not an elevator to be had!

Sandi's thinking, "I could live here."

This is the best room service meal we've ever had.

At Fisherman's Wharf.

John Murchie immigrated to Canada from Scotland in 1894 and founded Murchie's Tea & Coffee in New Westminster, BC. Little could he have imagined, back in the mid-1800s when he worked for Melrose's Tea of Scotland and first delivered tea to Queen Victoria at Balmoral Castle, that people like us would still be enjoying his blends today.

A thirty-minute drive from Victoria is Butchart Gardens. Converted from an exhausted limestone quarry back in 1904, it is an impressive place: 20 hectares (49 acres) of gardens, and not a blade of grass out of place! Just shows what having 50 gardeners can do.