Leaving Volcano and arriving at Pahala we take the scenic route via Ka'alaiki Road (or Old Cane Haul Road). It is a beautiful drive that loops through green hills with distant sea views and we had it all to ourselves. The low-key town of Na'alehu is the southernmost town in the USA - a title it milks for all it's worth. The most prominent landmark is the abandoned historic theater with a giant honu (turtle) painted on the roof.
An oasis in the desert of Punalu'u, the Punalu'u Bakeshop & Visitor Center packs them in from all around. Known for its sandwiches and variety of flavoured sweetbreads, such as the colourful 'kalakoa', it offers free samples to aid in decision-making.
We sit in the excellent picnic area out back, scarf down a few Malasadas and listen to this woman belt out a mean version of "Me and Bobby McGee".
We need a few more Malasadas for the road.
South Point is the southernmost point in the USA and a national historic landmark. It is widely believed this is where the first Polynesians landed. In Hawaiian it is known as Ka Lae, which simply means The Point, and is revered to be a sacred site. The wind is severe here as shown by this wind-swept tree we pass along the road. When you spot the trunk you'll know which way the wind blows.
Ka Lae feels like the end of the Earth, inspiring reflection. Even with the rushing wind filling our ears, an odd stillness and silence steals over us. We're not alone, however. The confluence of ocean currents here makes this one of Hawaii's most bountiful fishing grounds, and locals fish off the craggy cliff, some bracing themselves on tiny ledges partway down. Inside a large puka (hole), we watch water rage up and recede with incoming waves.
Continuing along the highway past the town of Captain Cook we come to the 150-acre family farm called Greenwell Farms, established in 1850, and run by fourth-generation Greenwells. It is one of Kona's oldest and best-known coffee plantations.
It currently roasts coffee cherries from more than 200 local growers. We take a free tour and sample coffee at a shady picnic table.
Hawaii was the first US state to grow coffee. World-famous Kona coffee wins raves for its mellow flavour that has no bitter aftertaste. It doesn't come cheap though - a pound is worth $26US. Sandi stands between rows of coffee trees, heavy-laden with beans.
We spot a chameleon on a branch.
Kona Red can be bought here, an intriguing new superfood made from coffee cherry pulp.
A three-horned male chameleon watches us sip our coffee.
The farm also grows large and small varieties of avocados.
Even though it's late in the afternoon the first thing to do is check out is the beach.
We discover we're not alone here either. The bay is a favourite spot of green sea turtles and it's their siesta time.
We're tired and our room is so comfortable we decide to make an early night of it and watch the Merrie Monarch Festival on TV. It comes to Hilo around Easter every year and this three-day hula competition is a phenomenal sellout attraction that turns laid-back Hilo into the place to be; forget about booking a last-minute hotel room in Hilo (like we tried to do). Top hula troupes from all the islands vie in ancient and modern categories. We're happy to watch it from the comfort of our king bed.
More toes. The coral and lava on the beach here are an interesting black and white combination and it's tradition to make your mark, so we do.
Tim heads into the bay for some snorkeling.
Tim swims with the sea turtles.
It's Happy Hour but truth be told, every hour is Happy Hour here in Hawaii.
It was hard to break away from our resort today but we heard Two Step was one of the best spots on the island to snorkel. Concealed within a (usually) placid bay, it is a series of ridiculously vibrant and beautiful coral gardens where the reef and marine life seem locked in a permanent race to outstrip each other with the gaudiest colour palette. There's no beach here, snorkelers step off a lava ledge beside the boat ramp into about 10ft of water, which quickly drops to about 25ft. Some naturally formed steps (hence the spots name) make entry and exit fairly easy.
Once in the water we feel like supporting cast players in Disney's The Little Mermaid. Visibility is excellent today but unfortunately our disposable underwater camera doesn't do our photos justice.
The predatory, orange 'crown of thorns' starfish (top right in photo) feasting on live coral polyps. Cool, freshwater springs seep out of the ground, creating blurry patches in the water.
Back at the 'ranch' just in time for sunset and dinner.
We discover something we like. A lot. The outdoor Laguna Lounge overlooking the sea with cool, live Blues guitar playing in the background and a cocktail called a Ginger Moscow Mule served with a huge bowl of mixed, salted nuts. And all this before dinner!
Today we head north to discover some more of the west coast's best snorkel spots starting with Mau'umae Beach. White sand, teal water, shady trees, protected waters, hardly anyone around - what's not to love about Mau'umae? Locals are proprietary about this gem (for good reason). There's great snorkeling on either end of the bay.
The Little Mermaid emerges from the deep.
Aquaman Tim stays in a little longer.
"I don't want to go home!"
Next is Beach 69, a lovely crescent of white sand which is a local favourite but remains somewhat off the tourist radar. Its calm, protected waters are ideal for morning snorkeling.
We have to go back to Maui to catch our flight to Vancouver so we're aboard Mokulele Airlines again for more spectacular sight-seeing from the air.
You can see how the lava flowed down into the ocean.
We fly past Kaho'olawe, the island off the coast of Maui.
Molokini Crater is a great place to snorkel. Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate when we had the opportunity - a good reason to come back.
A last glimpse of the resorts in Wailea. Mahalo aloha Hawaii. Thank you for everything - we had a great time.
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