Scotland the Brave

Edinburgh is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, draped across a series of rocky hills overlooking the sea. It’s a town intimately entwined with its landscape, with building and monuments perched atop crags and overshadowed by cliffs.

The brooding, black crags of Castle Rock rising above the western end of Princes Street are the very reason for Edinburgh’s existence. This rocky hill was the most easily defended hilltop on the invasion route between England and central Scotland, a route followed by countless armies from the Roman legions of the 1st and 2nd centuries to the Jacobite troops of Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745.

Sandi asks a local, “What’s worn under your kilt?” to which he replies, “Nothing madam, it’s all in perfect working order.”

Edinburgh Castle has played a pivotal role in Scottish history, both as a royal residence and as a military stronghold. The castle last saw military action in 1745; from then until the 1920s it served as the British army’s main base in Scotland. Today it is one of Scotland’s most atmospheric, most popular and most expensive tourist attractions.

Tartan is a Scottish icon, much celebrated in its national dress. Its origins are ancient and only partly understood. From it’s origins as a type of hard-wearing cloth, worn in whatever combination of colours the owner wished, tartan has now become a way for clan members to proudly identify themselves.

Tiny St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, crowns the highest point of Castle Rock. It was probably built by David I or Alexander I in memory of their mother, Queen Margaret, somewhere around 1130 (she was canonized in 1250).

Scotland didn’t adopt the Euro and still has it’s own currency.

Tim listens to his audio guide to learn about Mons Med, a giant 15th century siege gun built at Mons (now Belgium) in 1449.

A view of the city from inside the castle.

Quirky mirrors on the street tempt tourists into the Camera Obscura, a curious 19th century device that uses lenses and mirrors to throw a live image of the city onto a large horizontal screen.

The palace of Holyroodhouse is the royal family’s official residence in Scotland, but is most famous as the 16th century home of the ill-fated Mary, Queen of Scots.

The palace developed from a guesthouse attached to Holyrood Abbey, which was extended by King James IV in 1501. The oldest surviving part of the building, the northwest tower, was built in 1529 as a royal apartment for James V and his wife.

Mary, Queen of Scots spent six turbulent years here, during which time she debated with John Knox, married both her first and second husbands, and witnessed the murder of her secretary David Rizzio.

Bobby was a Sky Terrier who belonged to John Gray, who worked for the Edinburgh City Police as a night watchman, and the two were inseparable for approximately two years. On February 8, 1858, Gray died of tuberculosis. He was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Bobby, who survived Gray by fourteen years, is said to have spent the rest of his life sitting on his master’s grave.

We hire a car and head out of Edinburgh along the coastal route to visit Northumberland’s most dramatic castle, Bamburgh, built around a powerful 11th century Norman keep (fortified tower) by Henry II. The castle played a key role in the border wars of the 13th and 14th centuries, and in 1464 was the first English castle to fall as the result of a sustained artillery attack during the war of roses.

It was restored in the 19th century by the great industrialist Lord Armstrong who died before his work was completed. The castle is still home to the Armstrong family and apartments can be rented to the public. We were very tempted.

We arrive in the beautiful and compelling city of York, small in stature, colossal in its multitude of treasures.

The jewel in York’s crown, York Minster, is a monumental Gothic edifice of such extraordinary beauty it is difficult to comprehend it was created over five centuries ago.

There’s precious little left of York Castle except for this evocative stone tower, a highly unusual figure-of-eight design built into the castle’s keep after the original one was destroyed in 1190 during anti-Jewish riots. An angry mob forced 150 Jews to be locked inside the tower and the hapless victims took their own lives rather than be killed. There’s not much to see inside but the views over the city are excellent.

We view the exhibits at the York Castle Museum known for its enclosed recreated Victorian streets.

People travel from far and wide to queue to enjoy this extraordinary phenomena. It all started in Harrogate in 1919 as the institution that is Betty’s Café Tea Rooms and it’s even good enough for the Queen. Tea is served in silver pots, on silver cake stands and accompanied by a classical pianist and you can choose from more than 300 breads, cakes, and chocolates, and about 50 teas and coffees. We can’t believe the ridiculously long queue is worth the wait for a cup of tea so we’ll to try again another day.

There comes a time in your life when comfort meets substance. When all your hard work seems to have paid dividends and the world is at your command. All the things you hoped you could do someday, you’re doing. To celebrate your accomplishments “Old Guys Rule” offers up products to be worn as a badge of honour for a life well spent, but not nearly over. Tim buys a cap that says, “The older I get, the better it was” but is also tempted by the “Old Guys Rule Senior Tour” golf cap admitting, “No holes parred”.

The awe-inspiring York Minster is the largest medieval cathedral in all of Northern Europe. Seat of the archbishop of York, primate of England, it is second in importance only to Canterbury, home of the primate of all England—the titles were created to settle a debate over whether York or Canterbury was the true center of the English church. Without a doubt it’s one of the world’s most beautiful Gothic buildings.

The narrow, cobbled lane known as the Shambles, lined with 15th century Tudor buildings that overhang so much they seem to meet above your head, is the most visited street in Europe. Quaint and picturesque it most certainly is, and it hints at what a medieval street may have looked like—even if it’s overrun with people told they have to buy a tacky souvenir and be back on the bus in 15 minutes. It takes its name from the Saxon word shamel, meaning ‘slaughterhouse’—in 1862 there were 26 butcher shops on this one street.

The Jorvik Viking Centre combines a little Disney-inspired magic with a good splash of interactive museum. A full sensory subterranean ride (including the smells and sounds of Viking life) first takes you through York’s Viking streets before passing genuine archaeological troves.

We get into Betty’s early Sunday morning for breakfast with no queue! Who cares that a coffee is $6?!

From the remains of a Roman road in the cellar to the Edwardian servants’ quarters in the eaves, the Treasurer’s House is not only one of York’s most beautiful homes, but also one of its most historically diverse.

One of the many highlights of York is walking the Norman city walls which provide over 3km of sightseeing high above the teeming city. The original city walls included four main gates or ‘bars’. Above is Monk Bar which has four storeys. The bottom three were built in the 14th century and the top was added in the late 15th century.

Boothham Bar is on the site of one of the four main entrances to the Roman fortress. The existing structure is not Roman but it has been around for quite a while. The archway itself dates from the 11th century and the rest of the structure is from the 14th century.