Saturday, June 22, 2013

Chilling in Turkey


Finally sun! We’re here for a week to chill and bake. From Dalaman airport we catch a shuttle bus to the tiny fishing village of Selimiye, a small, sleepy harbour which is the jewel in the crown of the Bozburun Peninsula.


Our table for two is waiting for us.






Tim learns a few Turkish words over a few Turkish beers. He masters “bir bira” (one beer) very quickly.



After two nights in Selimiye we transfer to the super-stylish Dionysos Hotel with a private beach club, spa, and a organic farm supplying the hotel's three gourmet restaurants. Built on top of a jaw-dropping canyon overlooking the Bay of Kumlubük, there are panoramic sea views from virtually every perspective. This one’s from the balcony of our room.


Happy, happy are the sun-starved. We get more than we bargained for as temperatures soar to 40+ degrees celsius.


The golden-coloured escarpment which rises from the sea forms a mountainside peppered with pine and incense trees, which gives way to a dense forest that reaches up to the sky.


We take a 45 minute boat-ride to Marmaris and spend the day on an organized shopping trip. Tim is nominated for “Husband of the Year” for this one and takes comfort from Sandi’s restraint in the knock-off designer handbag boutique.





When in Turkey one must sample a little Turkish Delight. It’s everywhere.


We wonder where these dung beetles, rolling happily along the steps to our hotel room, got their supply.


The view from our hotel room window.



The glorious infinity pool.


A tortoise munches happily in the garden.




Dinner on the beach.


Not enough sunscreen. Don’t try this at home.


The hotel offers a complimentary day swimming and snorkeling on the “Gentleman's Boat”. We are offered lemon-aid and tequila as we board.



The ruins of an old church in one of the bays we drop anchor.









Sandi’s feeling hippy-dippy in her newly-purchased Oya petal and bead necklace. The art of Turkish Oya, crocheted lace-work dates back to 600 B.C.


Turkey also produces beautiful hand-painted ceramics with traditional patterns such as this example hanging on wall of our hotel room.




No, we’re not back in France. This stunning display of red poppies is on the property of Tim’s sister and brother-in-law in Lincolnshire, England. We’re here to do a little visiting and antique shopping before heading back to Whistler for the summer.

Saturday, June 15, 2013

Southern France Rocks, Part 2


The delta region of Camargue is home to the finest sea salt in the world, a tribe of migrating flamingos, and a unique breed of horse. But first things first—lunch by the sea in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.


The church of the Saintes Maries de la Mer held an important strategic position because at the time of its construction, between the 9th and 12th centuries, pirates were attacking the coast and it was necessary to defend it against invasions. Today, the statue of Sara, a major figure of the Gypsy cultural tradition is in the crypt to the right of the alter.



We wander the nature trails at the Parc Ornithologique de Pont de Gau bird sanctuary and spy on pink flamingos and many other species of beautiful fauna.














The white Camargue horse is an ancient breed indigenous to the Camargue area in southern France. Its origins remain relatively unknown, although it is generally considered one of the oldest breeds of horses in the world.






The elliptically-shaped amphitheater in the city of Nîmes is a better-preserved twin of the one at Arles and is far more complete than the Colosseum of Rome. It’s two stories high, each floor having 60 arches, and was built of stones fitted together without mortar.


One of the best-preserved arenas from ancient times, it once held around 24,000 spectators who came to see gladiatorial combats and wolf or boar hunts. Today it’s used for everything from concerts to bullfights.





Sprinkled throughout the city, small, physical remains of Roman Nîmes testify to its former importance. The city’s emblem—a crocodile tied to a palm tree—is a reminder that Nîmes was a favourite retirement home for Roman officers who conquered Egypt (the crocodile is Egypt, and the palm tree symbolizes victory). All over town, little bronze croc-palm medallions shine on the sidewalks.




The pride of Nîmes, the Maison Carrée is one of the most beautiful, and singularly best-preserved Roman temples of Europe. It was built during the reign of Caesar Augustus in the 1st century. Set on a raised platform with tall Corinthian columns, this so-called “square house” is more rectangular in shape.




Rising out of Mont Cavalier, a low, rocky hill just outside of the town center, is the sturdy bulk of the Tour Magne, the city’s oldest Roman monument. It offers a panoramic view over Nîmes and its environs and is worth the climb up the narrow stone stairs.



One of the most beautiful gardens in France, Jardin de la Fontaine, was laid out in the 18th century using the ruins of a Roman shrine as a centerpiece. It was planted with rows of chestnut and elm trees, adorned with statuary and urns, and intersected by grottoes and canals.


OK folks, hear this. This could easily be in the Top 10 list of best things to ever come out of France: Café Liégeois. A cold dessert made from lightly sweetened coffee, coffee flavour ice cream and chantilly cream. It sounds simple but it is seriously one of the most amazing tastes to ever cross our palates. Undoubtedly heaven will have this on the menu.


Moule, frites, vin. What more does anyone need? Oh yah, Café Liégeois.






Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France), the tiny, exquisite village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is well worth a day trip from Montpellier. Fewer than 300 people live in the medieval houses that tumble down cobble-stoned lanes encircled by a wooded ravine within the dramatic Gorges de l'Hérault. The central square, place de la Liberté, has one of the largest and widest plane trees in France, which shelter several cafe tables.










Dried Cardabelle wreaths are displayed on many doors—a symbol of good luck.







The main attraction, in addition to the general beauty of the village, is the 11th century abbey that sits on the site of the 9th century monastery founded by Guilhem, Charlemagne’s counselor.






Charlie does a great job of driving us through the beautiful Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. He stays focussed knowing the endless vineyards we pass will reward him with a glass or three of fine wine at the end of the day.


L'Abbaye-Chateau de Camon is situated in the beautiful village of Camon, less than 10 minutes away from the medieval town of Mirepoix. Camon, “The little Carcassonne”, is an ancient fortified village. This ancient monument dating back to the 10th century is now a luxury Chambres d'Hôtes owned and operated by one of our friend’s brother and wife, Peter and Katie Lawton, our hosts for the weekend.




Sandi is more than ready to check in.


We are given the Lavender Room.


Dinner is served al fresco in the courtyard. Our friends come from all over England to join in the fun.




The next morning after an indulgent breakfast Peter takes us on a tour of the ancient Abbey chock full of priceless relics.







Even the cold, damp weather can't dampen our groups spirits as they head off for a walk in the muddy countryside.



Sandi declines the walk as she decides she can walk the countryside anytime but won’t get a chance to lounge in a sitting room this grand for a while.


We have lunch in the square in the small, ancient town of Mirepoix a few kilometers from the chateau.



Ready and waiting for another delectible feast.




We’re on our way to Carcassonne for the day and had to stop for a photo on this picture-perfect, plane tree-lined road.



An important monument in the fortifications of the walled city of Carcassonne is the Basilique St-Nazaire, dating from the 11th to 14th centuries and containing some beautiful stained-glass windows and a pair of rose medallions.




The medieval cité of Carcassonne is among the major attractions in France. The fortifications consist of the inner and outer walls, a double line of ramparts. The Visigoths built the inner rampart in the 5th century.







Our final night kicks off with champagne. Trés de rigueur.





The Millau Viaduct is not only the tallest suspension bridge in the world but also a marvel of art and architecture.


We bid you a fond adieu. Dead bodies and aromatic cheeses aside, France never smelled so sweet. We're on our way back to London now before seeking out warmer, drier climes in Turkey.