Wild Things

Horton’s Plains National Park—a silent, strange world shrouded in mist at 2400 meters in the shadow of Sri Lanka’s highest peaks. It’s a windy, drizzly ride up through the rain forests and the chance to see the stunning views are looking bleak as the weather. The shock of the park entry fees further dampens our moods—over $60US!! Sri Lankans enter for 40 rupees per person while foreigners pay 1,675—more than 40 times the local price. We soldier on and fortune smiles on us as the clouds clear leaving a perfect, sunny day for our hike. We make the 8 km. hike to World’s End, so named for the dramatic end of this plateau which suddenly drops 1000 meters to the valley below! Ok, it was worth 60 bucks to get to the end of the world.

As we leave the cool hill country scenery and head to the south coast we are reminded that we are very much still in the tropics as the heat climbs rapidly by 15 degrees centigrade in just a couple of hours. We head well off the tourist track to the little-visited national park of Yala. Not Kenya or South Africa, but it does offer the opportunity to see an array of elephants, reptiles and birds... a veritable, virtual National Geographic magazine!

As we head along the beach resorts of the south coast we are reminded of the damage and huge loss of life caused by the 2004 tsunami—everyone seems to have a tale of loss. Many of the hotels and resorts have not been repaired and as a result tourists have not returned. Unawatuna is one of the exceptions and we made our base here for a couple of days as the water was clear and calm and the Happy Hour drinks were two for one. Even here, there are hardly any tourists to be seen. Most locals feel it’s due to the Tamil Tigers battling the Sri Lankan army in the north but the world economic climate has had some effect too.

Stilt fisherman use a pole firmly embedded in the sea bottom, close to the shore. When the sea and fish are flowing in the right direction the fishermen perch on their poles and cast their lines. Stilt positions are passed down from father to son and are highly coveted.

Back to sightseeing in the fort of the city of Galle, built by the Dutch in 1663. Most people visit as a day trip from Unawatuna or other beach resorts as we did although a number of boutique hotels have been opened to lure visitors to stay longer. After a $10 iced-coffee on the veranda of one of these we agree the city has lost it’s mojo and since we still had ours, we move on.

Five species of sea turtles lay eggs along the coasts of Sri Lanka—the green turtle being the most common. Others include Oliver Ridley, Hawksbill, Leatherback and Loggerhead. The largest reach 2 meters in length and can live over 150 years. We visited a turtle hatchery whose aim is to protect turtle eggs from predators and release babies back into the sea as early as 5 days from birth. Sandi holds a tiny one almost ready to be escorted to the sea.

Tacky tourist photo of the day.

So beautiful.

After a day on the beach in Bentota we board a flight to Bangkok to begin the Southeast Asia leg of our journey. To date (January 29) we are in Chiang Mai planning to head further north (but not before we get Thai massages) to the Golden Triangle where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. We expect to be in Laos in about 10 days.

Tea, Treks and Temples

When the noted scientist and author Sir Arthur C. Clarke made his home in Sri Lanka in 1956 he claimed that Sri Lanka was the best place in the world from which to view the universe. We set off to test his statement in its capital city, Colombo at the 142 year old Galle Face Hotel where he lived for several years. It was so beautiful, set steps from the oceanfront, we were off to a good start.

You may have heard the news about the government forces battling the Tamil Tigers in the north. As a result there are hardly any tourists in the country. With troops at every street corner in Colombo we felt safe and after a few days of relaxation we ventured forth to the ancient capitals of central Sri Lanka.

In the ancient city of Anuradhapura lies the Thuparama Dagoba—the oldest dagoba in Sri Lanka, and probably the oldest stupa in the world dating to the 3rd century BC. A dagoba or stupa is a Buddhist monument containing relics of the Buddha or Buddhist saint.

Built in the 3rd century BC the Jetavanarama Dagoba's massive dome can be seen for miles around. At the time it was built it was the third-tallest monument in the world, the first two being Egyptian pyramids. There are enough bricks in the dagoba's core to make a 3m-high wall stretching from one end of Sri Lanka to the other.

We climb Meditation Rock at Mihintale. This sight is of enormous significance because it is where Buddhism originated in Sri Lanka.

We pay our respects to the Buddha at Mihintale.

Reclining Buddha statue at Isurumuniya Vihara, Anuradhapura.

As we drive around Sri Lanka we encounter wild animals roaming freely such as this wild elephant in the middle of traffic.

We admire the intricately carved guardstones at the ruins of Polonnaruwa, one of the sights of the royal capital. Although nearly a thousand years old it is much younger than Anuradhapura, the first capital in 380 BC.

The Gal Vihara is a group of four beautiful Buddha carvings, all cut from one long slab of granite. Sandi basks in the serene gaze of the 14 metre long reclining Buddha entering nirvana.

We study the reclining Buddha statues and admire the intensely-painted murals inside the beautiful Royal Rock Cave Temples at Dambulla.

Sunset at the cave temples.

Rising 200 metres straight up over the dusty plains of north central Sri Lanka, the flat-topped rock formation of Sigiriya is not only one of the islands most impressive geological formations but also one of its greatest archaeological legacies. Popular myth says that the rock served royal and military functions from the 5th century AD but a new theory says that Sigiriya was in fact a long-standing Buddhist monastery built several centuries earlier.

We climb up to a natural cave halfway up the sheer rock face to view impressive frescoes of buxom women—intended to represent Tara Devi, an important Buddhist goddess. Locals believe they date as far back as the 5th century but no one knows precisely. Most remain in remarkable condition with vibrant colours having been protected from the elements and undiscovered until the middle of the 19th century.

Pondering the enigma of Sigiriya (Lion Rock) we climb its near-vertical rock face on iron ladders built by British engineers in 1938. Tim sweats heavily when he notices several of the steps rusting through.

We continue on to Kandy, originally Sri Lanka's capital city before it was moved to Colombo in 1815, and are entertained by Kandyan dancers and fire eaters. Kandy was a popular hill station retreat during British rule.

South to Adam's Peak, the second highest mountain in Sri Lanka, imaginatively known as the place where Adam first set foot on earth after being cast out of heaven.

Rising at 1:30 a.m. to slog 7 km up the lofty Adam's Peak (2243m) we are rewarded by a perfect sunrise. The journey involves a vertical ascent of 1200 metres and took a gruelling three hours to hike up the 4,800 steps and a further leg-burning two hours, twenty minutes to get down. We had to buy Ayurvedic balm to soothe our muscles which still ache.

As the sun rises higher it casts an eerie triangular shadow of the peak onto the misty clouds.

Famous world-wide for its Ceylon tea, we toured Mackwoods factory just outside of Newara Elia and for queen and country, Tim sips a spot of Orange Pekoe with views overlooking the tea plants.

Carolling in Kerela

The state of Kerela is where India slips down into second gear and stops to smell the jasmine. The backwaters that meander through it are the emerald jewel in South India's crown. Here, spindly networks of rivers, canals and lagoons nourish a seemingly infinite number of rice paddies and coconut groves, while sleek houseboats cruise the water highways from one bucolic village to another. Along the coast, slices of perfect, sandy beach beckon the sun-worshipping crowd, and far inland the highlands are covered in vast plantations of spices and tea. Exotic wildlife also thrives in the hills, for those who need more than just the smell of cardamom growing to get their juices flowing.

We soak in the culture and serenity of captivating Fort Cochin, a trading-post city echoing hundreds of years of colonial history. Giant fishing nets influenced by Chinese merchants, a 16th century synagogue alongside Christian churches, ancient mosques, Portuguese houses built half a millennia ago and the crumbling residuum of the British Raj—the result is an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country village grafted on to the Malabar Coast.

Cantilevered Chinese fishing nets in Fort Cochin—a legacy of traders from the court of Kubla Khan in around the 1400s, the enormous, spider-like contraptions require at least four men to operate the counter weights.

We tour a spice warehouse and took in a Kathikali performance. Elements of the art form of Kathikali stem from 2nd century temple rituals and are a dramatised presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics of Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. All the great themes are covered—righteousness and evil, frailty and courage, poverty and prosperity, war and peace. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell the story through their precise movements, particularly mudras (hand gestures) and facial expressions. Preparation for the performance is lengthy and disciplined. Paint, fantastic costumes, highly decorated headpieces and meditation transform the actors both physically and mentally into the gods, heroes and demons they are about to play.

After some Christmas shopping in Fort Kochi we hire a driver to take us to Munnar with its backdrop of rolling mountain scenery, craggy peaks, manicured tea estates and crisp mountain air.

Sandi waist-deep in tea.

In Eravikulam National Park we spot the rare, but almost tame, Nilgiri tahr (a type of mountain goat).

South to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary for some elephant spotting. On our early morning trek we see giant squirrel, black monkeys (above), a wild dog devouring a kill but no elephants so we take matters into our own (now sore) saddles and find our own.

A slice of Venice in the heart of Kerela, Alleppey is the base to foray into the dreamy backwaters on a houseboat. We opt for luxury and hire a private kettuvallam (designed like a traditional rice barge) on Christmas Day for one night. It comes complete with teak-panelled bedroom, A/C, shower, flush loo!!!, captain, chef and waiter and we indulge in what is to become one of the highlights of our trip. We sing Christmas carols and herald a talented crow who joins in our choir.

Local transport on the water highways near Alleppey.

The next best thing to turkey.

Sunset on the backwaters.

After Christmas we head further south still to the sensational cliffs of Varkala—a strand of golden beach nuzzling the cliff edge and more Bob Marley music that you can poke a dread-locked backpacker at, the vibe here is faithfully laid-back. We kick back on the shimmering beaches of Varkala and Kovallam (just 50 km from India's southernmost tip) by day and feast on seafood by night.

Sandi discovers where Santa goes for some R & R after he has delivered all the gifts.

Fashion Find

Sandi sports the lovely emerald ring Tim gave her for Christmas. In a traditional, simple, symmetrical Kerelan style—a combination of silver and gold with a stone in the middle and a motif on either side and bottom usually denoting the family that created it. Tim chose the heart motif to symbolize our love, befitting the season.

We fly from Trivandrum to Chennai on the east coast of India in the state of Tamil Nadu for a New Years Eve bash at the Promenade Hotel in the French-influenced village of Pondicherry where Tim sports his Christmas present from Sandi—an emerald green Indian tunic. Happy New Year!!!

Our last stop to explore some of India's finest rock carvings in Mamallapuram. It was once the second capital and seaport of the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram. The village is listed as a World Heritage site and remains a renowned centre for stone carving where you see and hear the constant tapping of hammer and chisel as artisans chip away at exquisite sculptures.

Tim admires the view from the beach restaurant where we ate lunch—in the background the famous Shore Temple, constructed around the middle of the 7th century, stands alone and majestic facing the Bay of Bengal.

Sandi thinks she moved the huge boulder known as Krishna's Butterball but locals and Tim are unmoved by her effort.

UPDATE January 5
We are posting this from the historic Galle Face Hotel in Columbo, Sri Lanka after 3 months of exploring India. Namaste India! Tomorrow we leave for a 15-20 day tour of the country—first to the northern ancient cities...